Day 16: Farewell Palau (We’ll be back!)

For our final blog post, the three of us- Paige, Susannah and Adam- decided the best way to commemorate our trip was to hear from everyone about their time here, following the questions: How were you feeling before this trip and how do you feel now? What is something important you’ll remember from this experience?

Bailey: At the beginning of the trip I felt nervous about meeting everyone, and also unsure about how I would be able to process all of the content. Now, I have friends that I am looking forward to spending more time with when I get back to Corvallis, and feel that my overall general mindset and outlook about conservation and how the world works has completely changed. It was a great trip!

Bailey making her way down from reforesting!

Kasia: Before the trip, I was feeling uneasy about the immense changes in the environment and culture that I would experience and I was feeling sad about leaving Corvallis into the unknown for the summer. Now, I realize Palau isn’t as different from my norm as I originally thought and as always, what I was nervous about experiencing was thoroughly enjoyed and wasn’t something to be nervous about. One thing I’ll remember is exacty that. My adventures are never experiences to worry about but are actually just things that make me a better more well-rounded traveled person!

Kasia shredding coconut for our dinner!

Abby: Before this trip I didn’t know anything about Palau. I felt that conservation had one path and it was to remove humans from the environment. Through my experiences here I have begun to see the environment and humans as working together and that humans can never be taken out of nature. I am so glad to have been able to learn from everyone here and I will always remember the community and sense of belonging that Palau has shown me.

Abby learning how to scrape taro

Taylor: I wasted so much time worrying about being isolated during this trip, and not gaining everything I hoped to because of it. I’ll always remember the warmth and the wisdom I was greeted with from Palauans as well as other students, and take those experiences and the confidence I’ve gained to help foster that culture of community and accountability wherever I go.

Left to right (Anna, Taylor, Lauren)

Jack: Before this trip, I had a lot expectations for what I’d see: incredible nature, fascinating culture, ways of life I’ve never imagined, etc. And I was definitely right about all of those things, but the reality of being here is so far beyond what I ever could’ve imagined. I’ll forever remember the amazing people I met here, the kindness they showed us, and the insane beauty of the nature here.

Jack representing Beaver Nation in Jellyfish Lake

Lauren: At first I did not know what to expect and was hesitant about how “remote” we were going, but looking back I wouldn’t have changed anything about our experiences. My favorite moments were just taking in the beauty of the island, and appreciating those who have protected and preserved its nature.

Lauren and her fish catch!

Savannah: This is a trip I will never forget. I’ve learned so much while being here and I’m excited to be able to apply all this new knowledge in my future career and personal life! I will always remeber the people I have met here and the impact they have left on me. Truly a once in a lifetime experience.

Savannah learning how to crack a coconut!

Angela: Before the trip I was scared I was going to accidentally say something culturally insensitive, but everyone was so welcoming and friendly and I was able to learn so much. Everyone had such different perspectives and midnsets from the US and it such a breath of fresh air!

Angela gutting fish!

Anna: I was expecting this class to only focus on water, and it was very cool to learn about so many different aspects of the island and how they’re managed in comparison to management systems back in the US. I’ll miss the reefs and nature here so badly, but I’m thankful I can appreciate them because it makes me want to help protect them even more.

Anna in Jellyfish Lake!

Raven: I came into the class without a lot of expectations but was excited to experience a new culture and see cool things in the water. In this class I was able to do that and more. Something I will remember is the beauty of this place that Palau has been able to protect and the hope it gives for our world’s oceans.

Raven and her sea cucumbers!

Paige: I have never been more grateful to be chosen to be here on this trip. I walked in with very little knowledge about Palau and I was met with so much grace and openness from the people here. What is there not to remember? We have driven the entire island learning everything from traditional knowledge passage, to looking at architecture, doing ecological restorations, planting taro, talking with our friends in Ebiil and within the government and got to go snorkeling in some of the most pristine coral reefs in the world. Walking away from this trip I am just incredibly grateful to be here with some amazing instructors and hosts and to have made connections that will last for life.

Paige’s off day underwater!

Adam: I was nervous. This was my first time crossing the Pacific and flying alone. I didn’t know what to expect, and if the 19 people I met in the next few hours would ever be friends in this strange place thousands of miles away. This place now feels like a home with the community I have built with my classmates, along with all of the people I met here and their kindness.

Adam swimming in the Rock Islands

Susannah: Before this trip, I felt scared to travel alone, nervous to be somewhere new, but also curious and ecstatic about such a cool opportunity to learn in a beautiful place. I leave feeling not so scared anymore. The truth is, even being in a new place with no one you know, you can never be alone. The people I’ve met here and the Palauans I’ve learned from made this world feel not so big. What I’ll take from this experience is hope. Hope for healthier oceans, more collaborative conservation strategies, and a world of people who help eachother.

Susannah with jellyfish!

Issie: Initially with this trip I was unsure if I was enough because I was the youngest in the group but after the two weeks I’m confident in what my strengths and weaknesses are. One thing I’ll remember is the community in the class and the people around us since it was the first time where I saw people so tight knit even if they’re not related to each other!

Issie swimming in Jellyfish lake!

Noah: Before the trip I was feeling a little nervous about traveling abroad and being in a foreign country with people I didn’t know. However I’ve had an amazing time getting to know everybody on the trip. I’ve learned so much and it’s really changed my perspective on conservation and sustainability. I want to always remember the natural beauty and connections I made throughout the course.

Noah in Jellyfish Lake

Now, on behalf of the Ridge to Reef class of 2026, we’d like to thank everyone who made this trip what it was.

Thank you to our families and friends for supporting us. We can’t wait to come home and tell you everything we’ve learned.

Thank you to the Ebiil Society for hosting us for a week and welcoming us into your home. You shared your knowledge with patience and openness, happy to answer our endless questions and share unique experiences with us. Whether it was preparing food together, learning about traditional practices, or simply sitting in conversation, every moment meant the world to us.

We would also like to thank all the guides and people we’ve met on this trip. Thank you to Paddling Palau and Palau Community College for spending your time with us. People like Anne, Joyce, Iseko, Ilima, Daemi, Chris, Mac, and everyone else inspire us with their committment to making a difference.

As we reflect on our time here, we are struck by a strong feeling of hope. In a world where environmental challenges can often feel overwhelming, Palau stands as a powerful example of resilience and responsibility. The commitment of Palauans to protecting their natural resources, while maintining cultural traditions and knowledge, reminds us that change is not only possible but already happening.

For a lot of us, this experience has strengthened our own sense of purpose. We all share a deep care for the oceans and our planet, and this trip has solidifed that even further. No matter how difficult things get, no matter who tells us something isn’t possible, we are reminded here why it is worth continuing to fight. We will continue to go out into the world with questions, curiosities, and endless wonder.

The resilience of Palau and its people will stay with us long after we leave. It is a reminder that hope is something built through dedication, community, and an unwavering belief in a better future. For that lesson, and for everything you’ve shared with us, we are endlessly grateful.

Thank you to Bryan, Scott, Maren, and Selina for your time, dedication, hard work, and mentorship throughout this incredible experience. Your passions for this place are what allowed all of us to one day come, and we will never forget these past few weeks you’ve shared with us.

And lastly, thank you to the Ridge to Reef classes of past years for paving the way for us. As Selina says, conservation is about people. Let’s keep being those people who, despite everything, continue to fight for this world.

Ridge to Reef class of 2026, signing out.

Day 15: Beetles and fish.

Today we met up with PCC (Palau community college) to learn more about their DNA sequencing of Coconut Rinocerous Beetles, an invasive species that has damaged many of the coconut trees in the Pacific islands, with the beetles targeting the palm fronds specifically. The head researcher of the lab, Chris, explained why the lab is dedicated to finding which beetle had a virus that changes the beetle population. The main goal was slowing the beetle population with the virus, but not completley wiping them out, since their larvae is important for mulch in local agriculture.

Collecting beetles from a beetle trap at PCC.

When arriving at PCC, protective wear was put on and a dead beetle was handed to each student, starting with the breaking off the back legs. Next the wings and head were removed as waste, then guts and fat were sorted and labelled. Solutions were pipetted and mixed with guts, allowing them to incubate together. From this process we could determine wether the beetle was a carrier for the virus.

Lastly we met with Deimi (an OSU alum!) at the Bureau of Fisheries, and she gave us an insight on her work, specifically discussing the impacts of climate change and tourism on fisheries management in Palau. They shared a project they’re developing which would moniter boats to better understand safety when it comes to overfishing or crossing protected reef areas. One of their long term goals aimed to build regional and global partnerships, and update fishing regulations since some of the policies are outdated.

Finally, we all sat down and had our last dinner together as a class! It’s been a great 2 weeks, and we’ve all learned a lot while enjoying our time on the island.

Final class dinner (:

Anna and Izzy signing off!

Day 14: Sharks ahhhh

We are coming up to the end of the trip now and today was our last day in the water. We spent another day at the rock islands, this time with the Palau Community College crew. We first went to Metukruikull, a protected rock island. Here we listened to Chris Kitalong give a talk. We learned that this island used to be inhabited but now stands barren. The rock islands used to be a good place for villages since the people would have easy access to the water, and thus their food. Some villages even caught fish and put them in the marine lakes as a back up food source. Chris also talked about some of the conservation efforts at this and other islands. A lot of these efforts were brought on by foreigners without much consultation from the Palauan people. One example of this is the protection of sea turtles, which sounds like a good thing but cut a lot of the cultural ties that the Palauans had with hunting turtles for food and currency made from the turtles shells. The turtles that were hunted by the Palauans had ample numbers in Palau and the practices from the Palauans were not endangering them. After learning from Chris we snorkeled off of the island, some students saw lion fish, pajama cardinal fish, butterfly fish, and more!

Students, professors, and PCC staff at the PCC summer house on Metukruikull
A pajama cardinal fish in the coral

After leaving Metukruikull we went to Ngarmeaus, which provided a stark contrast since Ngarmeaus is not a protected island, and is a common spot for tourists. The island was beautiful and cleaner than Metukruikull since it is actively managed. It did have much more area cleared, however, for building summer houses. We sat in one of the summer houses and ate lunch, then snorkeled Ngarmeau’s luscious shores. Here we saw lots of cool critters, including many blacktip sharks! One boat was chumming the waters which brought many small fish and sharks to the surface. Whether this is legal or not I am not sure but it did make for a spectacular view for us.

A video of the sharks at Ngarmeaus

We ended our snorkeling by going to the cemetery reef. The reef has a fitting name as most of the coral here is dead and breaking off. This has happened mostly due to a mass bleaching event and continual use. This reef is known as a “sacrifice” reef. Many tourists are brought here which kills the reef but keeps foot traffic out of some of the healthier reefs of Palau. Here we saw many large Napoleon wrasse which stayed at the surface due to people feeding them. This has contrasted our experiences snorkeling previous days where the wildlife was protected and had less contact with humans.

A Napoleon wrasse in a swarm of fusiliers

Day 13: Agriculture, Recycling Culture, and Culture Culture

Today we were back on land from being on the water the past three days, which was very needed for the sake of our motion/sea sickness. We ran around town, going from PCC, to the recycling plant, to Surangel’s, to the Etpison Museum. 

PCC Research & Development Station

We started off at the Palau Community College (PCC) Research & Development Station, learning about their taro tissue culture which can grow 200 to 1,000 taro from one stalk. They are the only botany research station in Palau and is a land grant organization. We are super fortunate to be able to see the inner workings of the plant tissue culture cultivation site, led by Chris Kitalong, who has been working with OSU since the Ridge to Reef class started!

The lab does amazing work in Palau to prevent mono-cropping through preserving the thousands of varieties of taro alive, in addition to attempting to make taro the superfood for the Pacific, which could help with reducing diabetes in Palau. 

Along with taro, PCC grows sweet potato, vanillas, orchids, pineapples, passion fruits, bananas, and many more!

After the tissues are grown (stage 1), they are moved to the small greenhouse (stage 2), then to the bigger greenhouse (stage 3), and finally it goes out to the community based on their needs. 

We were then given a tour of the animal husbandry areas for PCC students, where they learn to take care of animals. The animals are sometimes used for monumental traditional Palauan ceremonies. 

Surangel’s Super Center

We took a quick stop by the super store Surangel’s, where we got some gelato for an afternoon sweet treat!

Gelato flavors consisting of: ube, coffee, mango, strawberry, and even seaweed flavor…

Koror State Solid Waste Management Office & Belau Eco Glass

Our next adventure took us to the state’s recycling station, which receives Palau’s recycling and makes useful materials from them. They do amazing work keeping recyclable trash out of the landfills. These are some of the ways that the plastic are utilized: Sold to Taiwan, made into clothing, and made into oil (which powers the operations of the recycling plant). 

Glass recycling is also utilized, and are either crushed and given to construction companies to make into concrete, or made into fun jewelry/decorative eco-glass! As a small island, Palau has to look at resources differently and do what they can to make sure as little waste is produced as possible. Latest reports show about 25-30% of waste in Palau being recycled, along with a 88% redemption rate. 

Etpison Museum

Etpison Museum (self explanatory), we couldn’t take pictures inside 🙁

Our last stop of the day is to the Etpison Museum, where we learned more about the historical traditions and stories of Palau. For example, we learned about how a long time ago, a pregnant woman ate the forbidden fruit KEAM nut and turned into a dugong! In the Etpison Museum, children left unattended will be towed away. 

Children will be towed

Today’s blog was written by Angela and Lauren 🙂

Day 12: Jelly Fish Lake and more Snorkeling!

Today we continued our time learning and experiencing local tourism and finally made our way to see the notorious Jellyfish Lake. This is a marine lake that can contain millions of jellyfish in a good bloom year. We learned that this is also not the only marine lake with jellyfish like this across the rock islands and actually is one of the sacrificial lakes they have made to provide tourists with a closer look at what the rock islands are like. These islands are heavily protected by the rangers here.

We took a short boat ride to get to the UNESCO world heritage site, Ongeim L’Tketau which is where the lake is. We learned that the jellyfish life cycle goes from a fertilized egg to a planula which will plant itself onto the surface to become a polyp. This polyp will grow into a budding polyp to become an ephyra and finally to an adult medusa which was what we saw today. Since these jellies don’t sting, people are able to swim in the lake and be surrounded by millions of jellies without any fear. There are two kinds of jellyfish in the lake the golden jelly and the moon jellyfish, both of which we saw today! We swam with and around them and also simultaneously got caught in a very heavy rainstorm!

We then took another boat ride with our group to a long sandbar pinpointed between a few of the rock islands. Some of us wandered off to look at shells and sand dollars and others of us did a little bit of yoga…

We then hopped back into the boat and found our way back into the water for some more snorkeling with our guide Mac! Our first snorkel site was located near New Dropoff where we swam along a steep drop and saw some amazing animals including gray reef sharks and hawksbill sea turtles who were swimming below us! There were lots of different fish and huge amounts of coral all along the reef drop. Mac even let one of our classmates, Raven, pick up a huge sea cucumber which made her very happy.

Our second site was within the false German Channel. This area is more popular for tourists, so when we arrived there were other groups with us as well. The experience gave us a good time to reflect more on ecotourism and how important and big it is for Palau as a main source of revenue, especially since the past few days we have been sheltered from that. The reef was still beautiful and there were so many kinds of cool fish to see, but you could tell that the coral was much more damaged than ones we have seen in other spots. The other group that was with us had screaming children and people who were kicking or standing on the coral. It was incredibly frustrating and demonstrated how important this type of education is for tourists since we have been hearing since we got here about not touching the reef and making sure to not disturb anything. What they were doing can be damaging to the corals as they’re a living creature and are very important for marine ecosystems, however Palau does have regulations in place to deal with these kinds of tourists like the sacrificial areas we mentioned before with Jelly Fish Lake. This reef is what you could call a “sacrifice reef”, as it is a spot specifically designated for tourists to go to, so they don’t have to worry about the damages they cause.

Our third site was the coral garden. The coral garden was incredibly beautiful with a diverse array of corals in all shapes and sizes. Some of the table top corals were larger than our tallest students! This was one of our shorter snorkels of the trip, so we quickly loaded back into the boat only to be met with a heavy rainstorm. It was a cold and wet ride back to the dock but luckily we made it back safely and to the car only to find it in about half a foot of water.

Only 4 more days of traveling left!

Written by Paige and Savannah!

Day 11: Burning and Learning (wear your spf)

Mac showing us what we’ll be seeing today!

We set out with Paddling Palau bright and early into the Rock Islands, lead by our guide Mac. First we were on a boat, then moved into kayaks. Our first stop was a small cave where we could listen to a species of bird called the Palauan Swiftlet who uses sonar to navigate the dark caves. Then we went to Mandarin Fish Lake to snorkel and spot the tiny Mandarin fish. They are highly sought after in aqarium trade due to their beautiful colors and unique look.

The cave we visited with the Palauan Swiftlets.

The water was so beautiful and clear, we could not stop admiring it. We had some yummy bento boxes from Kings for lunch, but didn’t wait the 30 minutes after eating before getting back in the water, we couldn’t help it! We kayaked through the islands a bit more (note to self, put extra sunscreen on your thighs when you kayak), then headed back to the boat. It was an afternoon full of amazing snorkeling spots. Our guide Mac took us to a place where you can snorkel with the current pulling you along, and you hardly have to swim! We saw incredible corals, unlike anything you can find elsewhere in the world, and some were the twice the size of us.

Next we went on a search for dugongs near their protected area where they go to feed when the tide is high. They are an endagered species here, but also a very important special ceremonial food for the local clans. Locals are working to find a balance within both of those needs. We spotted one bull with the drone and were able to see its head pop up for some air. We also searched for a manta ray, but with no luck, as it is not the season for them. After the long day, we headed back to the hotel to rest up and head to dinner. Some students went to Tori Tori, a nearby Japanese restaurant with delicious sushi.

We can’t wait for our second day in the Rock Islands tomorrow!

This post was written by Bailey and Susannah.

Day 10: A day off -Kayaking, Diving, and Jack’s Birthday!

Today was the students’ day off. So what do you do on a day off in Palau? Get out on the water! Certified scuba divers (and Scott and Selina) went diving with Sam’s Tours and saw amazing underwater sights, while many of the others paddled and snorkeled the rock island with kayaks from Paddling Palau. A great day off! This video blog was produced by Jack and Lauren.

Day 9: Triumphs and Troubles in Conservation

The first thing on our agenda was the Bureau of Environment to see Ilima, who we had already met back at our time at the Ebill Society. Ilima is the head of the Bureau, and was kind enough to give us a presentation about who they are, what they do, future goals, and past achievements already made! Their work has 8 different programs which cover everything from resource management to endangered species. She informed us that even though they oversee and manage so many things, they only have 12 people currently working. Most of their work, however, can be separated into 2 different sections: Division of Protected Areas and Species (DPAS), and Division of Forest, Land and Water Management (DFLW). She also told us about some of their key commitments and goals for the coming years. One of those is expanding Protected Areas Network (PAN) to protect 30% of land and sea by 2030. These areas are very important for Palau, so expanding them would help the island thrive even more. 

Another thing she mentioned that really stuck out was Palau’s energy. She said that currently the island runs on diesel to power their electricity, which was really surprising. When we asked about renewable energy, she explained how hard it would be because their only option is solar. If a solar panel breaks, there’s nowhere to dispose of it and no one to fix it on the island. This make it hard for them to switch to renewable energy, but even then she did say that they are still trying. Talking to Ilima gave us all a deeper look into the politics of facing climate change and protecting the island, and how much deeper it goes than just small conservation efforts that we got to see at Ebiil. Thank you Ilima for all the work you do fighting for your country and for sharing it with us! 

Alima’s Presentation

After our time at the Bureau of Environment, we headed over to a river with waterfalls called Meskelet, lead by a member of the Forestry Department. After a quick swim at the falls, we visited the Palau National Aquaculture Center to learn about their fisheries processes. During a tour of the center, they walked us through the breeding processes of giant clams, tiger prawns, sea cucumbers, and milkfish. The staff showed us their 8 different species of clams, which they raise, spawn, and distribute to clam farms. Some clams are exported, but only to aquariums.  

Along with the amazing good happening in conservation, we also got a view into some of the issues the industry is facing. Poaching is a known problem within the fisheries community, but the ways of handling it are controversial. While at the center, we saw an Indonesian fishing boat docked. Many boats fishing in protected areas are run by low income and marginalized workers. When they are caught, many are abandoned by their companies. With no company to claim the boat and no documentation, the workers are often kept at port, unable to enter the country. Oftentimes their families don’t know if they are still alive. The process to get them home can take years. You can learn more here: https://www.ap.org/news-highlights/uncategorized/2015/ap-investigation-slaves-may-have-caught-the-fish-you-bought/

We returned to the hotel for a group reflection before going out to explore Koror, and spent the night immersing ourselves in the food and culture of the community at the Koror State Night Market.

This blog was written by Taylor and Savannah.

Dancers at the Koror Night Market

Day 8: A Day of Reflection & Driving

Today was our last morning at the Ebiil Society. Some students got up early to catch the last snorkeling opportunity off the pier, while others woke to strong winds and a rainstorm coming in. We raced to pack up the paddle boards and tidy up the camp while it poured rain, then took some time to sit together and reflect on our time here at Ebiil.

Last view of the girls’ dorm :,(

We want to thank everyone at the Ebiil Society for everything they did for us this past week. We learned so much from the staff during our stay, and we are tremendously grateful to them for all the hard work they put into feeding and hosting us. We ate so many incredible meals while being here, and we even got to learn how they make and prepare some of their foods which was an amazingly unique opportunity. Additionally, we are extremely honored to be able to borrow knowledge from them and to have made so many memories with them. They were incredible hosts, and no amount of time with them would have been enough.

After a group photo with the staff, we loaded our bags into the cars and said our farewells. Until next time, Ebiil. Sulang!

On our way to lunch we stopped in Ngiwal to visit a restoration site planted by the Ridge to Reef class of 2019! It was cool to see what our restoration efforts from our first day at Ebiil might look like in 7 years. After a long car ride (30 minutes) from Ebiil, we got hungry, so lunch at Okemii was a necessity. The food was really good and the view matched.

We returned to the Palau Hotel and got settled, then took some time to get groceries, gifts, or walk around town before we gathered up for dinner. We went to the Rock Island Cafe where we had a large array of foods, and stories and laughter filled the table. Some students finished the evening with some exciting tasks like picking up laundry and visiting the dive shop Overdrive for some dive gear and souvenirs.

Group dinner at Rock Island Cafe

We look forward to our adventures in Koror this week. Thanks for reading!

This entry was written by Adam and Susannah.

Day 7: Seeing Fishes, Catching Fishes, Eating Fishes

Today, we thoroughly observed fishes, from seeing them in the reef, to catching them, to cleaning and gutting, and finally eating them.

Snorkling in the Ebiil Channel

We started off the day by walking to the pier and splitting up into two boats. We rode across the ocean into the Ebiil Channel, which is a no-take, no-touch area; meaning that no one is allowed to fish or take organisms from the protected area. This was originally to protect grouper spawning but has also helped many other species to thrive.

Group big boat heading towards the Ebiil Channel, #VoteHadleyforGovernor

The group then had the amazing opportunity to snorkel in the Ebiil Channel and we saw so many beautiful sea creatures! This channel has unique geography with shallow corral reefs, cliffs, and the deep channel. This is because it is a channel that leads from the open ocean back to the shallow lagoon.

Students and Bryan
Striped Surgeonfish

Lunch & Megapodes

After snorkeling, we headed to the island Ngerkeklau, where we had lunch for the day. We saw the endemic (species found only in one part of the world) megapode and heard the story of the megapode and the turtle, a Palaun folklore. This is a Palaun story that explains the origin of the relationship between megapodes and turtles. A woman prayed for children and gave birth to a turtle and a megapode. The woman was unhappy since she didn’t have human children to help around the house, so the turtle and megapode left. The turtle helped the megapode cross the ocean and in turn the megapode now helps baby turtles hatch by digging up the sand and scratching leaves to protect them from predators. The megapode was previously an endangered species, but the population has since increased and they are now only considered threatened.

Fishing & Gutting

We then headed to a different, non-protected area of the ocean and started fishing for our dinner. Using a hand line, we were able to catch a variety of fishes, totaling 28 fishes that we feasted on for dinner. We put squid bait on hooks and sent the weighted line to the bottom of the ocean, and patiently waited for a bite. And bite they did! After hauling in our catch we started on gutting the fish and prepared it three different ways for dinner.

Rest assured, we were learning about food waste in America the entire time. We gained insight into how most of the fish in the U.S. is not used, whereas in other parts of the world, all of the fish is utilized (including the eyeball!). This connects to how cultural values and traditions can influence a country’s sustainability. Another example is when fishermen from the Virgin Islands were complaining about red hind fish restoration becoming too successful since the fish were growing too big to fit plates. Traditionally, they would serve the whole fish on the plate, so due to the restoration success, they were not able to continue this cultural practice. Conservation efforts should always be planned within a cultural context, and take into account as many perspectives as possible.

Super Fish Dinner

From left to right: Smoked, Shashimi, Fried

Today’s post was written by Raven and Angela <3

Day 6: Sweat, Mud, and Taro

Bright and early this morning we walked down the road to Ebiil’s mesei (taro patches). Cultivating Taro is a culturally important practice to Palauan’s women. Often, maintaining a Taro patch is a way that Palauan women provide for their families. These taro patches can be passed down generation to generation for hundreds of years!

The taro patch before we planted

Once at the mesei we learned about their significance from Auntie Marie. In Palauan culture, taro is always planted left to right. We got a short demonstration on how to plant taro using stems from previous taro plants from Iseko of the Ebill staff. We then got to plant our own patch! The mesei are split into bluu (squares with taro planted) and kellaeb (The waterways between each bluu). We walked in the waterways so that we did not disturb any of the already planted taro. While walking in the waterways we sunk into the mud up to our thighs! Luckily we were given coconut oil to spread on our legs before hand so that the mud and taro did not bother our skin. Once planted, the taro will take 8-9 months until they are ready to be harvested. Learning about this practice made us appreciate all of the taro that we have been served at Ebiil.

The taro patch after we finished planting
Students learning from Auntie Marie
Students planting taro

Water management of mesei is extremely important for the health of the taro. The waterways that flow between the mesei are often connected to many other mesei belonging to other families. It is important to keep the water clean and flowing so that the community can all share water. After planting taro we went to look at a mesei that has been completely destroyed. A dam was built to provide clean water and water pressure to the village. While this is good, the women of the village shared concerns that the dam would flood the community mesei. Their concerns were not taken into consideration and when the dam was built, exactly that happened. Today the mesei are overrun with grasses.

The old community mesei

When we got back to Ebiil we had a delicious lunch of fried rice, tofu salad, and poki. Just the energy kick that everyone needed to move on to our next activity of the day! Now that taro was planted it was time for us to start processing taro. We started by helping the staff scrape all of the dirt off of some taro that they had cut from the stems. Wearing gloves during this process is essential as taro skin containes calcium oxalate crystals. When handled raw this compound can cause irritated and itchy skin. The process of scraping the dirt off the taro was oddly satisfying and got us one step closer to our meal!

Students scraping dirt off of the taro
Student Abigail Johnson with scraped taro

After lunch we had some free time. Brian , Daniel, Red, and Dora lee took some students on a tour of the garden at Oleii that provides the Ebiil society with food. The garden grows many important foods and medicines like papaya, tapioca and sweet potatoe as well as fresh eggs. Not only are these foods important for nutrition, but they also have cultural importance for Palauans. By continuing grow them and use them, the Ebiil society is helping to protect Palauan Culture.

Sweet potato patch
Bannana Trees

After returning to the main site, their was still more extra time before dinner. Some of the students spent time interacting with the young fruit bat Razor, a pet of one of the workers at Ebiil. Others decided to snorkel out to try and find a WW2 sunken plane just the jetty. Me (Noah) and Adam went off in search of the wreck. On the way out to the reef they found several interesting creatures in the eelgrass such as crocodilefish, sea stars, and jellyfish. Eventually the eelgrsss transitioned into coral. We searched for the wreck but were quickly distracted by the pristine reef. We saw numerous hard and soft corals, sharks, stingrays, angelfish and feather stars.

Coral Fan seen while snorkeling
Stingray swimmingy by

Heading back to camp, the Ebiil Society had prepared a delicious dinner of BBQ chicken. We then cleaned up and waited for the arrival of the fifth Chief of Ollei. As third chief, it is his responsibility to be the messenger between the different Chiefs. He has done a lot of important work to protect the fisheries around Ebiil, particuraly protecting giant clams and establishing a protected zone around Ebiil Channel. In Palau, roles are split between genders where the woment tend to the taro patches and harvest clams while the men go out and fish. That is why it is the responsibilty of the Chief to protect to oceans and fisheries.

Noah with the 5th Chief of Ollei

Written by Abigail Johnson and Noah Brown

Day 4: Searching for Sea Cucumbers & Clam Drop Off Drive Through

Today was our second full day at Ebiil. Our group started the morning split off in two groups: one with a task to snorkel for retrival of giant clams, and the other paddle boarding off shore of Ollei on the search for sea cucumbers.

Clam Catchers Team 1

The Giant clam group ventured off by boat to the giant clam farm to pick up some young clams for relocation. It was pretty cloudy today and the wind picked up so it was a fun and bumpy ride. Once we got to the right place we saw several patches of netting in the water. These were the underwater clam gardens that were protected by the fencing and netting. Within the gardens, there were many clams of varying size and color, completely covering the sea floor. The Palauan women who cared for the gardens easily picked out young clams for us and moved effortlessly in the choppy waters with years of experience. We collected around 100 young giant clams, taking some from each garden and swimming them over to the boat and collecting them in blue barrels.

Bailey collecting clams and delivering them to the boat

Measuring Sea Cucumbers

The other group paddled to a cheremrum (Palauan for sea cucumber) nursery site and practiced field measurements and even found a few, although surprising less than usual. We then faced some rough tides meeting with the other group on the boat, the wind taking our paddle boards off route and into the mangroves. Luckily the water was shallow enough to jump in and redirect ourselves. 

Clam Restoration in Ollei

Once we made it to the boat and everyone was reunited, clams were handed off and placed on the sandy seafloor. While we snorkeled around placing clams, we saw various corals, fish, and sea stars. The clams had closed from their long journey, probably to retain moisture and for protection. As we placed them in their new homes, it was really cool to see them open back up. In some areas the local fish were immediately checking out the new additions to their home. Once we were finished, we again split off into two groups. Most of the class went back to Ebiil on the boat, while a few of us traveled via paddle board train.

Removing Rebar

Later in the afternoon, Ebiil staff and some students went back out on the water to detach a clam trap, which catches netting, rebar, and debris in water, disturbing swim pathways and accumulating trash. The small team of elite rebar removers went out at low tide and helped to clean up the remains of an old clam garden.

Today’s blog was written by Lauren and Raven :p

Day 3: Coconuts for Sea Cucumbers

Group photo at Old bauxite mines

We went up to the old bauxite mines, a major producer of aluminum which was mined in the 20’s by the Japanese. In the midst of getting caught in the rain, we planted native trees in order to help restore the land. We put coconut shells and palm fronds over the seedlings to protect them from the shade and help retain moisture.

Adam and I (Kasia) hiding from the rain
Raven with her sea cucumber clan

After the plant restorations, we headed for lunch and a stroll to Kuabes beach, where we found sea cucumbers, several fish species, coral, and hermit crabs as we walked the low tides.

After planting the saplings, we had to replenish the seed supply so the group worked on breaking open seed husks and planting the seeds so that we may have more seedlings for the mine restoration later.

We also worked on processing coconuts. We saw how to break open the husks, take out the coconut, crack it open, and how to scrape it out. Ebiil kitchen will use the shavings to make coconut milk.

We literally went from ridge to reef today, being able to plant seedlings on the restored mine land and walk the low tide by the reef. In doing this, we got to see the benfit of vegetation and how it plays a part in stopping the sedimentary run off into the ocean which affects the vulnerable coral reefs.

Today’s blog post was written by Kasia and Adam.

Day 2: Adventures to Ebill

Today we departed Koror and started making our way to Ebill Society, a local women-founded non-profit, where we will be spending the next six days studying everything from watershed management to clam restoration. There were two main stops along the drive. The first was a guided hike up a historic stone path that led to a large and beautifully painted Bai (traditional meeting house for tribal chiefs), and the second was a stone Monolith site. It was a very hot and muggy day but an absolute DOWN-POUR in the middle cooled us down and made the hike down from the Bai fun!

Inside a traditional Bai

Our guide Vivian and her husband helped us understand each story behind the artwork on the outside and on the beams of the inside of the Bai. Each beam represents a story from a different family, and the people who painted them got to learn about the tale within the process.

Each Bai is built using nearby plants and trees, no nails or metal. The triangle roof is woven together using palm fronds which are then dried in place, and they act as “shingaling” for rain to slide off of it. The long vertical and slightly raised beam in the middle connecting the firepits works as an alarm system for intruders. When someone comes through the door, that is the first thing they step on and it is meant to be slightly loose so it rattles and wakes the chiefs up.

We also got fresh coconuts to drink the water from at the top, which we agreed was the best coconut water any of us have ever had!

After getting a shower (the rainstorm) we hiked back down and had traditional Palauan food for lunch- including fried fish, rice, and glass noodles. After that we loaded back into the vans to see the ancient monoliths. They are giant rocks that have been there for thousands of years and the orgin of them is somewhat unknown because they are made of rock that is not found anywhere else on the island. It was a short but steep hike down to the site with lots of stairs, but it was very worth it. We will be asking the women at the Ebill Society about the traditional Palauan story behind the monoliths and will keep you updated on what they say!

We arrived at Ebill late afternoon and had time to walk out to the ocean and see the mud flats during low tide that we will be doing clam restoration on in a couple days. Dinner was prepared by the cooks at Ebill and included grilled fish, taro, white rice, and democh soup. We all loved it and are excited to see what it will be in the coming nights! Before bed we had a group reflection about the day and learned more about what Ebill has done to help with watershed management. They understand that however the land is treated and whatever is put into it all runs back to the ocean and can affect all different forms of life.

We are all looking forward to learning from them in the coming week and borowing knowlege to pass on and spread awareness to the natural resource issues they have faced and solved over the years. Thank you for following along and we will keep you updated!

Best,

Bailey and Anna

Day 1: Snorkels and Sulang

Group photo at Paddling Palau

On the first day of Palau we departed to the Balau National Museum, where we read how countries encountering the native Palauans influenced and changes their way of life. It’s interesting how some outside influence improved such as Germany writing the language in the latin alphebet while other times it disadvantaged the country’s sovereignty.

After a small car ride into the Palau Aquarium, we learned how people survey fish with the fish survey sheets given out on our trip. Id’ing fish was really hard especially when the fish is not displayed on the boards. Scott was great help when one of us had trouble trying to find what category our desired fish was at.

From the aquarium we headed to the Japan-Palau Freindship Bridge Park to regroup under the sun house and finally jump in the water! Both new and experienced snorkelers got to buddy up, test their gear, and take a peek under the sea.

After a swim and our first snorkel under the Friendship Bridge, we joined the staff of Paddling Palau for dinner, dessert, and a presentation from master storyteller Mac Sasao. Before starting the presentation, he blew his horn 3 times to acknowledge the ancestors and the sharing of knowledge.

Mac’s horn

He told us about the Palaun flag, whose yellow circle represents the moon. The blue background shows the peaceful night sky with the moon outshing the stars. If you look at the flag, you’ll also notice that the circle is off center. This represents a new future for Palau, away from colonization. Part of this future is marine conservation. After making some of an economic comeback from intense colonization, big fishing lines were banned. 80% of their waters are no take, making them one of the largest marine preserves in the world. These conservation areas protect Palau’s unique marine lakes, inner lagoons, outer reefs, and pelagic zone (open ocean).

The view from Paddling Palau

Today’s blog was written by Taylor Habedank Fuller and Izzy Yeung

Day 13: Me When I Extract DNA

Today was all about dna extraction and GMO’s. The dna extracted today came from the taro samples cultured from yesterday. Later we set up mosquito traps to catch potential vector born illnesses, where they will count identify and test different species. High schoolers in the STEP-UP program taught us about a new breed of passion fruit that was sent from Jerusalem from one of their local universities. These passion fruits are much larger than other varieties and we had the opportunity to help them repot their propagations. We ended the day being invited by the president of the university to an assembly on land grant institutions and how their efforts in the US affect small pacific islands like Palau.

Repotting Passion fruit
Us When We Vlog
Mosquito trap

This blog post was done by Megan, Jacob, and Katie

Day 14: Sulong e mechekung! Farewell to Palau.

As we draw closer to the end of our trip, we want to take a moment to reflect on how amazing our experience has been. From wading in knee-deep mud in the taro patch, to the skin-crispening sun on the ocean, to singing in a monsoon, we’ve made the most out of every single day. We’ve been especially aware of the dedication shown to us by every person we’ve interacted with. Each of us has developed on this trip in so many ways.

Image: Watching the sunset as we headed back to the dock after an awesome day of kayaking

Growth

We learned about each other and more importantly, about ourselves. We discovered new ways to communicate with people of different backgrounds and cultures. Additionally, we learned to work and live together as a close-knit group.

Image: Getting cozy in the girls dorms at Ebiil

Observation

We learned to observe the world differently and at a greater depth. Our experiences taught us to take a broader view of conservation and culture.  Through the programs we participated in, we learned to focus more on long term solutions, rather than becoming discouraged by immediate challenges.

Image: Noah Popping Up For Some Air

Expanding Our Comfort Zone

From trying new foods to learning how to swim in the ocean, we all pushed ourselves to our limits and then some. We each learned that we are capable of more than we originally thought. Each day was a challenge but by the end of our trip, we took change in stride and are grateful for all of our experiences.

Image: Trying new foods, prepared in new ways

Academic

This class has given us a better understanding of how complicated natural resource management is, and how important it is to encompass the needs of all those who may be impacted. We were blown away by the people we met who had identified issues in their community and then constructed long-term solutions to those problems. They emphasized the importance of involving all the stakeholders and that none of this work can be done alone.

Additionally we learned how difficult balancing the intricacies of biodiverse ecosystems and societal needs can be. For example, the issues surrounding land use management, food security, and development within the bounds of a space-restricted nation. Every decision no matter how well informed has a tradeoff.

Image: Converting bauxite mine to native forest for new land uses

We are so grateful to all that made this amazing trip possible. 

We’d like to thank…

The staff at PCC (Lik, Clarence, and the kitchen staff), Ebiil Society (Ann Singeo, Cindy Fitzpatrick, Sharon, Aot, and the rest of the staff), Paddling Palau, Chris and Ann Kitalong, Dr. Nwe, PCC Multispecies Hatchery, Koror Solid Waste Facility, Cooperative Research Extension Program, Koror and Ngarchelong State Rangers, Belau National Museum, Palau Aquarium, Mechas Anne-Marie from the taro patch, Tino the fisherman, the staff at the Melekeok Bai and Stone Paths, OSU’s Departments of Fisheries, Wildlife, and Conservation Sciences, and Rangeland Resources.

We’d like to personally thank Drs. Scott Heppell and Bryan Endress.

And finally, we’d like to thank the rooster, without whom we would not have known it was 4:00 am every single morning.

Palau OSU crew 2023 signing off.

Authored by Dustin Audirsch and Melissa McMullen

Day 13: Rain or Shine

Today we started our day with Paddling Palau picking us up for round two. The weather was very rainy but that didn’t stop us from going out to learn and explore new places in the Rock Islands. We got on our boat and we headed off in the rain which was a chilly ride.

Hilary, Melissa, and Veronica enjoying the boat ride

We arrived to our first destination of the day, the Milky Way. The Milky Way is a nice little cove that is full of limestone sediment that is muddy and very white in color. The limestone mud is good for your skin and some local stores even sell the mud for skincare. We also had a great time playing with the mud and diving through a pool doughnut.

Students enjoying their mud bath
Noah, Midner, and Alanna having fun

Our next destination was the famous Jellyfish Lake. It is a small hike going up and over the island to get to this marine lake. Jellyfish Lake is comprised of two stingless jellyfish, the moon jellyfish and the golden jellyfish which look amazing. The lake is also comprised of cardinal fish, silversides, little pied cormorants, and the Entacmaea medusivora which is an endemic species that preys on the jellyfish. The jellyfish population has been low over the past two years, but they are starting to bounce back. On good years, there can be up to 5 million golden jellyfish! The lake is comprised of several layers, the mixed layer with oxygen where the species in the lake hang out, the pink bacterial layer, which is 13 meters deep, and the poisonous layer which is 15 meters deep. Our guide Mac strongly advised not diving to those more dangerous layers.

The beautiful Golden Jellyfish
Rebecca admiring the jellyfish

We went and visited a spot that has a large piece of traditional Palau money . The traditional money piece is called a yap, or they are also commonly called a rai stone. These magnificent stones are made from calcite, which is is formed when limestone and water which calcifies. The yap is very important for the Palau and Yap cultures and once the stone hits the ground, it must stay right where it touches the ground and no longer holds its original value. People can buy the yap, but it still must stay in the same spot. The large stones would get carved from a calcite cave and then they would shape the stone with pumice and other tools very carefully because the stone is fragile and can crack very easily. We learned that the hole in the center of the stone is meant for transportation.

Broken calcite
The class next to the rai stone

After seeing the yap money, it was time for our lunch. We ate lunch on the beach of an island that had quite a bit of black tip reef sharks. Everyone swam with the sharks and were able to check them out up close which was pretty dang cool. We saw as many as five sharks!

Blacktip Reef Sharks with juvenile Golden Trevally
Blacktip Reef Shark with a Remora under it
Everyone swimming with the sharks

Our final stop for the day was at the fishbowl or otherwise known as the fish cemetery. At the fishbowl there were lots of big, beautiful coral and many fish. We also were able to perform some conservation by taking out some crown of thorns. The crown of thorns like to feed on coral reefs, so it is essential to limit their population so help mitigate some of the damages. The crown of thorns is very poisonous, so you have to be careful to not touch their thorns, so the best method of removal is by using a spear to pick them up. While the crown of thorns is not an invasive species, there is a population imbalance, and they require management. Our guide Finn was able to spear one crown of thorns while we snorkeled.

Clown fish peeking up
Finn spearing the crown of thorns

After a long day out on the ocean we headed back to Paddling Palau and then back to PCC. We all freshened up to go out to one last group dinner at Kramer’s. We were joined by a few special guests like Chris Kitalong and Dr. Nwe. It was a lovely evening together just chatting, playing pool, and eating some really good food.

Group photo after the day’s adventures
Everyone eating and enjoying our time together at Kramer’s

Written by Garret and Veronica

Day 12: Rock Island Hoppin’

Paddling Palau picked us up today at 8:00 am to take us to their shop. Once we got there, we made sure that all of our permits were good to go for the Rock Islands, and then we boarded the boat. Once we arrived at our destination of Risong Bay, we split up into three groups on kayaks with our snorkel gear and rotated locations. The first group was dropped off at the site of a shipwreck, which was a Japanese cargo ship from World War II. The second group was dropped off at Mandarin Fish Lake, where they were on the search for the skittish mandarin fish. This group got lucky and had the chance to see one!

Image: Mandarin Fish photographed by Reid Endress

The third group was dropped off at what was called the fish pond, which is basically a lagoon that has been closed off with rocks which were put in place by the Japanese during WWII; it is where people would hold and rear the fish until they reached a harvestable size.

Image: Remnants of a fish pond photographed by Scott

While out on our kayaks, we heard the most ethereal bird calls. It was so peaceful to be able to sit out there and just listen to the sounds and live in the moment. Some of the species that we heard included the Palauan Bush Warbler, which almost sounds like a human whistle. We also heard the Imperial Dove, which has a growl-like call. We saw lots of Fruit Doves, which are the national bird of Palau, and are an endemic species to Palau. We also saw lots of fruit bats!

Our tour guides Mac, Finn, and Adam were brimming with knowledge about all the different birds, plants, history, and basically just everything that we saw. They could answer any questions that we had about the area, and really made the tour extra special. Mac told us all about the formation of the Rock Islands as well as the erosion which causes the undercut. These islands are essentially just pushed up coral reefs made out of limestone, that have been slowly eroding away at the waterline. Mac pointed out on a rock face in one area that had a distinct line which is an indicator of the sea level once being much higher than its current level.

Image: Erosion of the Rock Islands photographed by Anna

Once everyone had a full rotation on the kayaks in Risong Bay, we hopped back on the boat to eat some much needed tasty bento boxes. When everyone was finished eating, the shenanigans commenced! We had people belly-flopping off of the bow of the boat, jumping, and swimming around the reef that we were anchored above.

Image: Haley with her bento box

Our next stop was to try and spot some Mesekie (dugongs) near a sanctuary area they are known to frequent. The water was a little rough (okay maybe a lot for some), so it wasn’t easy to spot them at first. However, after a few minutes, someone spotted several and we were able to watch them for a little bit. While waiting for them to surface again, we also saw many sea turtles in the area.

After seeing the dugongs, we headed out to a channel in which our guides knew some manta rays had been using recently as a feeding zone. Almost right away we saw several from the boat at the surface feeding. We spent some time snapping some photos from the boat, but the real excitement came when Mac asked us if we wanted to get in the water with the mantas. Of course, the answer was yes. The current was really strong in this area because of the rising tide carrying water and nutrients from the deep blue nearby. This is primarily the reason the mantas show up in this spot. Almost immediately we had mantas swimming directly below us! One cool thing that Mac mentioned about the mantas is that they tend to get white spots on their top side when they’re feeding. This is a sign that they’re eating well and happy. We had so much fun on our first drift-snorkel through the channel that the boat captain, Jeff, took us to the beginning so we could do it all over again. 10/10 recommend!

Video: Manta Ray swimming directly beneath Haley

After a successful day of kayaking, listening to the birds, seeing the lush flora and fauna of the rock islands, and swimming with manta rays we headed back to Paddling Palau and called it a day.

Image: kayak raft photographed by Alanna

Written by Anna and Rebecca

Day 11: Kayangel Atoll

We started the day with an early morning boat ride, going 2.5 hours to the north. During the ride, we saw spinner dolphins jumping out of the waves to greet us.

When we reached the island the water was a gradient of colors ranging from turquoise blue to deep ocean blue.

The turquoise blue waters near the atoll
Our boats docked along Kyangel Atoll

There was work lined up for the day, but the Kayangel State Conservation Staff was on lunch break, so we sat in the summer house and ate our lunch. Each of us got a single piece of the best mango on the planet.

Delicious mango that we all cherished

Afterwards, we took the opportunity to explore or talk to conservation experts. It was low tide, and on the far side of the island there was more trash than any of us had seen here. All of this was washed up by the tide, and most was not from Palau.

Disco ball shack

We also explored a cool island shack that seemed to be the life of the party! Cue the disco ball.

Trash piled along the east side of the island

Down in the tide pools, we came across two different species of moray eels. They were hiding under rocks away from the sun waiting for the tide.

Moray eels within the tide pools

We then made our way to the clearing to help the conservation staff continue their work. Our job was to remove the invasive green vines that were growing over the trees. Removing the vines prepares the land for reforestation, which will improve the habitat of the Megapode (a native ground bird).

A group photo of work being done to remove invasive species
Melissa clearing vines from the trees

We boarded the boat to start back towards Babeldaob, and to listen to Chris Kitalong talk about the destructive coconut rhinoceros beetle. The beetles have always been in Palau, but go through cycles of destruction. They eat the heart of the palm , which kills the tree, resulting the loss of palm fronds and fruits. It is clear when the beetles have been to a place because the palms are left looking like giant sticks. Coconut trees are important to island life because coconuts provide a hydration source where freshwater is rare or absent.

Chris Kitalong giving us a lecture about the Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle
Coconut trees that have been decimated by the Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle

As we were making our way to the dock, the sun began to set, which made a calming glow on the tranquil waters and the rock islands.

Sun setting on a group boat by the dock

It was a quick turnaround from returning to the dorms to leaving for the night market. The Koror night market occurs biweekly, and features food, art/craft vendors, and dancers. We all got to try fried spiral potatoes and bought some fresh dragon fruit.

Local night market under the Friendship Bridge in Airai

Written by Rachel, Abby, and Haley.

Day 10: June 30th

We all loaded up in the Mesekiu bus yet again and ventured back up north through the winding mountain roads to the PCC Multispecies Hatchery. We met Richard Page, an aquaculturist who has worked at the facility over a year. The facility is a polyculture center that houses and reproduces multiple types of sea creatures such as sea cucumbers, tiger shrimp, rabbit fish, giant clams, mangrove crab, and some rescued hawksbill turtles. Just in the last year this institution has grown exponentially, increasing their success in aquaculture production. In the past eight months they released 16.5 million mangrove crab megalope into the ocean.

(Group gathering around the sea cucumber tanks)

The tour began in the lab where they culture the algae in mother cultures and transfer them into water jugs. There are three different types (CM, Nano, ISO) that are used as the base for the aquaculture feed.

(The three types of algae)

There were three different tanks with tiger shrimp. Tank 1 had a high protein feed, tank 2 had a Taiwanese feed, and tank 3 had a low protein feed. We observed that the shrimp in tank 1 were the largest around 200 grams and had much more color and energy.

(Tiger Shrimp chilling out)

We moved our tour to the sea cucumber tanks where there were two different types. Most interesting was the Stichopus cucumber contains the highest amount of fucan sulfites. These sea cucumbers can be segmented into additional ones. Richard Page has been studying the effects of the holothurin toxin that they contain and the regenerative processes that they can have. When mixed with stem cells they have the potential to help with growing skin, cartilage, and ligaments.

(Veronica, Rebecca, and Abby holding sea cucumbers)

We returned to PCC for a quick break and then returned to our bus to make our way to the Koror Solid Waste Facility. It is a multi operational facility ran by the local government. Here they separates the glass from the plastic and compost.

(The group photo in front of Koror Solid Waste Facility)

Onsite it contains the Belau Eco Glass Studio that turns the glass in the recycling process into art.

(Belau Eco Glass Center sign)

(Recycled glass art replication of Palauan women’s money (Bachel))

Part of the waste facility is dedicated to recycling plastic into a synthetic Diesel fuel. The process begins with separating plastic into four categories, cutting them up into tiny bits, washing, drying, and then heating that into a gas that distills into the end product of fuel. This process creates enough energy to fuel itself with a 10% surplus. The Chief engineer of the facility told us that they would like to expand the operation to process all of Palau’s waste plastic, but they are facing a prohibitive cost and a lack of personnel. We also learned how the Japanese government gave Koror a grant (in alignment with the UN mission for sustainability) to replace equipment lost in a 2017 fire.

(Separated plastic shreds)

We came back to PCC and toured their 3D printing lab where they had made lots of these cool fruit fly traps that twist onto plastic bottles. They also had a giant lantern trap for Rhinoceros Beetles. One type of the beetle lives in a coconut tree and spreads a disease into the trees which can eventually kill them. The lantern traps have a light and pheromone pouch that lures them inside.

(Bryan, Scott and KB introducing the Rhinoceros traps)

This day gave a lot of insight into how the Palauan community, government, and outside partnerships collaborate to solve sustainability issues and to better improve the cultural and economic environment.

This blog was written by: Alanna and Brittney (With some help from Alex and KB)

Day 9: Plant Tissue Culture and Agriculture

After a refreshing day off, we got up bright and early and headed out to PCC’s Cooperative Research & Extension (CRE) station to visit their research & development section.

Image: Road sign at the entrance to PCC-CRE

We started with presentations by Dr. Nwe and Arsenio, a representative from Koror State Solid Waste Management. Dr. Nwe gave us a brief background and explanation of the research they are conducting regarding plant tissue culture and agriculture. We learned that they do a lot of research around crop improvement not just for the country of Palau but to help surrounding islands as well.

Arsenio gave us a background of what their office does and how they manage waste in the island and their overall goal of “environmental protection & preservation”. They sort the waste into different types of materials: recyclables, plastics, food waste, metals, and glass. For the plastics they have implemented an energy recovery program that will melt plastic into a bio-diesel fuel which can be used for their generators to power facilities all while producing no harmful emissions and reducing plastic waste. Another interesting project they told us about was their repurposing of glass. They will take the recycled glass and melt it down in a kiln to be turned into blown glass art to be sold.

Image: Dr. Nwe introducing the PCC-CRE staff

After the presentations, we split into three different groups to get hands-on experience of the work they do. One of the stations was in their plant tissue culture lab, where we got to see and help propagate clones of different species of taro. This was conducted in a sterile environment so before entering we put on lab coats, masks, and gloves. This is to protect the genetic diversity of the taro as the lab serves as a form of seed bank for taro. The process begins by taking a clone and dissecting it down to the sprout and then placed in a gel media to grow. The gel is changed every month for 3 months, and then the taro is taken out of the jar and then cleaned and planted.

Image: Garret (left) and Alix (right) showing their successfully dissected taro shoots.

Another station was learning about soil analysis with Arsenio. We got to review the results of the soil samples taken when we were at the bauxite mines on day 3. While the dirt is still generally unproductive, the soil from 2020 did show some progress in that there was an increase in magnesium. Arsenio and his office use this system to analyze the compost they make to see if they need to add or take away anything, they also use this to test areas of concern around the island. One of the projects that Koror State Solid Waste Management has started is the Urban Growers Program. This program provides opportunities and access for families and households in Koror to grow their own gardens to give better access to healthy and fresh food. They provide the tools and resources needed for the families to understand proper waste management.

Image: Soil Analysis results of our soil samples with 2020 on the left and 2023 on the right.

The last station, was with Kodama-san in the greenhouse. He showed us propagation techniques of air layering, cutting, grafting, and budding. Air layering is when we expose the stem and then wrap in moss to encourage roots to form, which you can then cut and plant after a few months. Cutting is taking a healthy portion of a plant, applying hormone powder to the base, and placing it in soil where it can then grow and become a separate plant. Grafting is a technique where tissues of plants are joined together so that the new branch will become part of the host plant. Budding is grafting technique in which a bud of a plant is grafted onto the stem of another plant.

Image: Dustin trying his hand at air layering

After lunch, PCC CRE provided us with some refreshing coconuts to enjoy before our tour of the farm.

Image: (Left to right) Noah, Rebecca, KB, Veronica, Melissa, Alix, and Alanna enjoying their refreshing coconuts

The first stop on our tour was their livestock, where the manure of the pigs is collected to be used for compost. We also got to view their banana crops where they had two separate crops to test how one did with fertilizer and one without. Even though they were planted at the same time, and are the same species, the fertilized group was larger in size and healthier overall. The last stop was their taro and tapioca patches. They explained that Palau has three different crop environments: sers (uplands), mesei (swamp/marshlands), and dechel (wetlands). We were able to see examples of all three environments, with taro traditionally being grown in a mesei environment.  

Image: View of a tapioca crop at PCC-CRE with taro fields in the background

Today’s blog was written by Noah and Alix

Day 8: Free Time

Today was a day of rest and/or free exploration for us. Some of us went to the beautiful Long Island Park and Conservation area to hike in the jungle.

Ngermalk – Long Island Park and Conservation Area
One of many labeled trees along the trail and the raucousness of the jungle (volume up!)

At the park was a medicinal plant garden full of species like Kertaku (Myrtaceae Descaspermum fruticosum – native), Blaulked (Rubiaceae Timonius mollus – endemic), Rur (Rubiaceae Bakia palauensis – endemic), Ebechab (Plypodiaceae Microsorum scolopendria – native), Chemudelach (Rubiaceae Hedyotis Korrorensis – endemic), Kelsechedui (Lamiaceae Vitex trifolia – native), Ukellelachedib (Fabaceae Chamaecrista mimosoides – native), Ngmak (Asteraceae Ageratum conyzoides – native), and several others. We learned that endemic refers to species found only in a certain region, and native refers to species that are naturally occurring without human introduction but can be found in other regions.

Indigenous medicine garden

Medicinal uses for Kelsechedui, for example, include reducing high blood pressure, use as a mosquito repellent, a tonic to simulate appetite, give you energy, and keep your body hydrated. Recipes and instructions for these remedies can be found in the Palau Primary Health Care Manual.

Across the island, another group spent the day with Sam’s Tours diving out in the Rock Islands. Palau is known worldwide for its incredible diving and this group did not want to pass up this opportunity.

Ready for a day of diving! From left to right: Brittney, Reid, Melissa, Scott, Alex (eyeballs only), Jocelyn, Dustin

We left the dock and before we even reached our first dive site, we came across a reef manta ray swimming across the reef.

Reef Manta Ray

The first dive took place at German Channel. An equal mix of sandy bottom and reef, this was the perfect easy dive to begin the day. We spotted many varieties of fish and other sea life including sharks and turtles.

Before ascending to the surface, we stopped to snap a few quick pics to remember the moment.

Brittney and Dustin throwing shakas 50 feet down
Jocelyn throwing shaka 48 feet down

The next dive site, Dexter’s Wall, exhibited plunging reef walls that disappeared far below what we could see. The reef was made of mostly soft corals mixed in with hard corals. Here, the sea turtle sightings continued with our group spotting at least five of the beautiful creatures.

Melissa observing a green sea turtle

The dive concluded when we arrived at the Blue Corner, which swept us away into a drift dive. People who talk about diving in Palau never fail to mention the sudden swift currents that can catch a diver off guard. After a fast-moving safety stop at 15 feet, we popped to the surface for lunch.

After a delicious bento box, we hopped back into the water for our last dive of the day, Canyons. This site displayed steep walls of colorful hard corals with canyons breaking up the scenery. We swam though a rather large overhead tunnel and finished our dive at a vertical wall full of life and color.

Hard coral rock wall at Canyons

From laundry to shopping, to diving and hiking, we ended our day feeling rested, refreshed, and ready for another week of adventure here in Palau.

Written by Jocelyn, Dustin, and Hilary (Shaka)

Day 7: Sad Goodbyes and New Beginnings

We soaked up our last little bit of Ollei at the Ebiil Society camp this morning with what had quickly become a routine of coffee, chats, and laughter in the kitchen area with some much needed snuggles and scratches with Dice, the dog that everyone has become so fond of. Before splitting into our groups to do camp clean-up chores, some students took a walk over towards the dock for breakfast and a milkshake. When everyone was all finished, we convened in the classroom one last time for a group reflection. It quickly became apparent how much of an impact this experience had on each of us. Some teary eyes, hugs, and thank-yous were made to Anne, Cindy, Omar, and the rest of the wonderful staff as we geared up to head to the traditional fish weir in Ngekkeklau. The high emotions were an indicator that our souls were fulfilled and inspired by what an incredibly special place the Ebiil Society is. It was hard for us to leave such a warm and welcoming place in which we all felt that we had become part of a big family. We all succeeded in rediscovering our inner child at Ebiil Society.

Students and Ebiil Society staff

After taking a group photo we all hopped on the bus (with air conditioning!!) to head to our next destination; the traditional fish weir. Before arriving, we were all expecting that we would be wading in the water at most up to our knees, well, we were wrong! Not one of us was prepared to go for an unplanned swim, but being flexible and having the ability to find laughter in uncomfortable moments meant most of us just went for it.

Students standing around fish wier

The fish weir is constructed of stones from the area and was recently rebuilt so that it can be used again to harvest fish this August. The original structure dates back about 1000 years. The fish can swim into the weir at high tide, but the design is such that the fish aren’t able to swim back out because they can’t turn around such a sharp corner. The fish can then be harvested with a spear for a fresh meal. This method is very passive, requiring no refrigeration, no fuel costs, and any unwanted species can be tossed back over to the other side to continue living freely making it more sustainable overall. There are plans being made around Palau to restore and use more ancient fish weirs for these reasons.

Drone photo of fish wier

Our next destination was to visit a reconstructed Bai, the traditional meeting house used in ancient Palau for making many governmental decisions. To get to the Bai we had to hike an ancient stone path that wound up the steep forest hillside. The hike was a brisk 10-15 minutes up the mossy and lush forest. When everyone reached the Bai, our tour guide Thema began to explain the purpose and significance of the Bai. He told us that the Bai was the center of the executive part of the government in the ancient Palauan state.

Ancient stone path to Bai

The Bai is covered in stories. Our guide talked about how each image on the outside of the Bai is significant to what happens inside. One of the most interesting details of the stories and the structure is the entrance. There is no door, just a low opening at each end to allow people to step inside. The short height of the opening is purposeful, it forces someone to bow their head as they enter and show respect as they enter. The front entrance to the Bai also has a large black bat painted on the underside of the beam that supports the front wall. The bat represents the action of bowing; bats hang upside down when at rest, this is considered a show of respect. Thus, the bat in the low doorway requires all who enter to follow suit and show respect.

Reconstruction of traditional Bai

After our hike we continued our journey back to PCC to get settled bac in the dorms. We all gathered and had a chat about what everyone was doing the next day and what the plans for the week are. That concluded our day.

Blog by Anna Tollfeldt and Alexander Van Brocklin