Day 10: Jellyfish Lake and Roof Building

The tenth day of the class began with a brief visit to the Coral Reef Research Foundation (CRRF) to listen to a presentation on the impacts of climate change on the islands of Palau by Dr. Pat Colin.

Interested students learning about the effects of climate change on Palau

After the presentation, we headed to the Palau International Coral Reef Center where we hopped on a boat and went on a bumpy 30 minute ride to Jellyfish Lake.

Happy students before we hit the open ocean and the bigger waves

Once we arrived at the lake, a bit beaten and battered from the boat ride, Gerda Ucharm, a research biologist for CRRF, gave us a brief overview of what we would see in the lake and the life cycle of their world famous jellyfish.

Once everyone was ready and had their snorkel gear on, we jumped in the water and were greeted by the most amazing scene we had ever seen.

There were thousands upon thousands of golden and moon jellies but don’t worry, they have lost the ability to sting humans.
There were so many jellies it was difficult not to kick them with our fins
Simone capturing the beauty of all the jellies around her.
Destiny doing her best impression of The Matrix to avoid hitting the jellies

Jellyfish are not, however, the only residents of the lake. There are also a few endemic species of fish and anemones, of which, three are pictured below.

An endemic cardinal fish
An endemic anemone
An endemic blenny

After snorkeling Jellyfish Lake for about an hour, we went and had lunch on a nearby beach and then went for a short snorkel.

A school of moorish idols swim over a beautiful forest of coral
A curious pufferfish

After we returned to dry land, we headed over to Palau Community College (PCC) where we learned how to weave palm fronds into pallets to be used on the roof of a traditional bai, or men’s meeting house. According to the president of PCC, they need approximately 2,000 pallets to cover the roof (I was only able to make two in an hour).

One of the PCC volunteers teaching the gang how to weave the string through the fronds to make a tight pallet to keep rain out.
Bryan was the first to try it on his own
Tate and the rest of class got better and faster at the weaving as we made more and more pallets.

After working up a big appetite making pallets, we ended our evening at the Rock Island Cafe where we had pizza, pasta, burritos, and sundaes.

Savannah and Simone were very pleased with their purchase.

Dylan Heppell, Environmental Sciences, Class of 2022

Day 9: Meet, Greet, and Learn with Local Students, Researchers, Officers, and Program Coordinators

As we start our time back in Koror, some of us are relieved for a mellower day (healing sunburns and staying mostly dry) indoors attending presentations by the Palau Conservation Society, the Palau Community College’s PAIR high school students, the Palau National Marine Sanctuary, and the Division of Marine Law Enforcement.

It’s as if we are headed to school, backpacks and all. Here we come PCC!
Due to previous break-ins the Palau Community College had to reinforce their entrances in a serious fashion.
Both PCC and local high school students work within this program alongside Chris Kitalong.
Tate, Simone, and the rest of the class listen to Chris, who passionately tells us about Palau.

We arrived at the Palau Community College around 8:30am to listen to a couple of the PAIR high school students present their research and get some feedback before they leave to present in Washington DC at the National Institute of Health Conference. In preparation to hearing them, Chris Kitalong was happy to fill the time gap with personal history and research of his actions in Palau, with the college, and with his own experiences and research. He is a Palauan scientist whom leads the PAIR program and guides local youth to be involved and learn about their community from a science perspective.

Ya-Ya briefly giving us an overview prior to our 10am departure to the next presentation.

After some technical difficulties, we were able to view the Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle poster and learn briefly about some of the research on the effects it’s having here in Palau with the coconut trees. Quick description includes: The beetles have been found to be killing the coconut tree (a very resourceful plant here in Palau) in the Pacific islands, with Guam no longer having the tree and Hawaii losing it’s population quickly. Research shows that in the lower populated areas of the Palauan islands have less tree damage ,while the areas that clear vegetation for building have more tree damage due to having more downed trees for beetle reproduction areas. These CRBs (Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle) have been narrowed down to two types with one type being susceptible to a virus that kills them after injection and release back into the vegetation. The research is very important to preventing the future death of the coconut tree and Ya-Ya will be presenting this in Washington DC next week.

After our quick morning at PCC, we arranged to come back later in the afternoon to view the rest of the presentations and provide feedback. We hopped in the vans for a drive over to the Palau Conservation Society to meet with the executive director- Abolade (Bola) Majekobaje, project coordinator- Bernie Besebes, and John, the once Protected Areas Network Coordinator and law enforcement ranger and now legislator and PCS program coordinator.

They provided such fun and interpretive materials with their conservation work with the locals nationally. As well as explained some of their neat international partnerships working to improve and conserve Palau for future generations. Check out the video below for a fun way of seeing some of the successful projects come to life!

Happy departure photo with some of the staff of PCS!

Pictured above is the Okeanos Sailboat in the port that some of the PCC students sailed on during their recent research of the Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle damage on southern islands. Be sure to check out the rad (once Australian Navy) boat the Marine Patrol now uses behind it!

Elsei, the Education and Outreach Officer for PNMS welcoming us!

Elsei Tellei with the Palau National Marine Sanctuary provided a wonderful presentation of the PNMS work within Palau and the Marine law enforcement. Covering the importance in topics such as the fisheries, food security, education, tourism, and even some of the fishing laws in place and ones that will soon take effect.

Jim Kloulechad with the Marine Law Enforcement discussing their work on the waters.
Global tracking of fishing boats within Palau waters and beyond.
High profile surveillance room sneak peeks!

After an engaging discussion and view of the patrol boats and surveillance room with the PNMS folks, we headed back to PCC for more student presentations and possible Bai roof help work.

PCC President talking to us about tomorrow’s Bai roof building help we will assist with. They ran out of leaves!
The roof we will be helping build!
Lastly some feedback with one of the student’s and her presentation on fruit flies! They’ve captured the first female fruit fly ever and have been trying since the ’60’s- how cool!

That just about wraps up our long day of classroom like sessions. Dinner, leftovers, and homework ends the evening splendidly. Jellyfish Lake tomorrow and we can’t wait for more snorkel adventures. Until next time.. 🙂

Published by:

Destiny Pauls, Natural Resources- Conservation Law Enforcement, Class of Spring 2021

Day 8: Off-day

Today was our day off from regular class activities. The group split up and went to do various activities around Palau. Destiny, Dylan, and Scott went diving with Sam’s Tours; below are some of the photos taken on their dive trip.

Destiny on the first dive at Big Drop-off
A juvenile midnight snapper
A dwarfgoby on a fan coral
A wire coral goby on a wire coral
The fuzzy red thing is an orangutan crab
A tiny whip coral shrimp
A longnose hawkfish
A spotfin lionfish
An extremely cryptic decoy scorpionfish

After our first dive, we went to a beautiful secluded beach for lunch.

For our second dive, we visited Ngerchong Reef, a slow sloping reef still recovering from a typhoon that came through six years ago.

A school of bumphead parrotfish returning from spawning
A rust-spotted guard crab hiding in a coral

Once we were finished diving, we visited a few souvenir shops, got some coffee, and then ended the evening at burger shack.

The remaining members of the class spent the day visiting PCC, going souvenir shopping, swimming in a freshwater creek, and snorkeling near a reef. We started off the day at Palau’s community college in Koror to visit their rhinoceros beetle lab.

Simone holding the larva of a rhinoceros beetle

After the lab we wandered around Koror visiting local souvenir shops and eating at a local coffee shop. While at the coffee shop we happened to see Pia Mia, a famous singer from Guam. We then traveled to a swimming hole that is a favorite among Palauan high schoolers.

Simone and Sofia holding on against the current

After the freshwater creek we decided to go snorkeling.

Sofia and Katherine walking down the pier
Pictured above is Tate
Picture above is Sofia
Dark Knee Hermit Crab (Dardanus lagopodes)

We ended in the evening at a local Vietnamese restaurant before returning home.

Last Day in Ebiil: Re-sighting Sea Cucumbers

After a once in a lifetime experience staying in Ollei we have sadly come to the end of time with the Ebiil Society. The schedule for our last day consisted of looking for the Sea Cucumbers (Curryfish) we had tagged prior, and snorkeling through the mangroves. We set out across the sea grass at low tide this morning and after multiple transects found 21 total Curryfish, eight of which were tagged. We also found many crabs, jellyfish, as well as many different fish species, some of which are endemic to Palau.

A Crown Elbow crab found in the sea grass.
“El” transecting for Curryfish.
“Yoyo,” nine years old, helping to move supplies in the Kayak for snorkeling.
A swimming crab found in the sea grass.

After finishing the transects, unfortunately the tide was too low to snorkel in the mangroves; instead we ventured out past the sea grass to the reef for a snorkel. We encountered many different species of fish, clams, nudibranchs as well a Japanese plane that was shot down during World War II.

Chocolate Chip sea star
Coral Clam
Blue Damselfish
Japanese Plane
More parts from the crashed plane.

After returning back to camp, we enjoyed our last lunch at the Ebiil Society. It included the fish we had personally caught. We also had the opportunity to drink fresh coconuts. Saying goodbye to all the staff and teachers was emotional. We are so grateful for the time we were able to spend with them and for everything they taught us.

OSU and the Ebiil crew.

Ciao,

Tate & Katherine

Big thanks to the Ebiil Society for hosting us,

little thanks to Dylan for identifying the fish.

Day 6: Ebiil Channel Snorkeling and Mesei/Taro Patch

An early morning start for all of us, especially Katherine

Starting the day with a morning boat trip to Ebiil Channel. Ebiil Channel is a marine protected site in the northern part of Palau established in 2000. It’s an important site for the spawning of Bumphead Parrotfish.

Sofia and Destiny pictured at bow of the boat.

(pictured from Left to Right) Bryan,Sofia, Dylan, Simone, Tate, Scott, Destiny, and Katherine. This was the 12th attempt at taking this photo.

pictured above is Katherine enjoying the view behind the camera

pictured above is Destiny throwing peace to the fishes
pictured above is Simone and Destiny. Two different priorities
pictured above is Sofia looking for a worthy challenger
pictured above Dylan and Scott having a father and son moment under the sea
pictured above is the majestic Tate
pictured above is Dylan trying to capture a photo of a lobster
pictured above is Jose playing for the MedaBoys in their under water league
pictured above is underwater god Junior
pictured above is Savannah, all “clammed” up for the photo. P.S. there’s a giant clam below her.
pictured above is Kobe trying to recreate the waves of the ocean
pictured above is Bryan looking over his empire

Picture below are some of the interesting animals we encountered on our snorkeling adventure

pictured above is a blue sea star (Linckia Laevigata)
pictured above is a cushion star(Culcita novaeguineae)
pictured above is a smooth giant clam(Tridacna derasa)
Lunch time back at the Ebiil society. We enjoyed fish burgers and potato salad in the summer house.

After lunch we headed to a local taro patch where we learned about its traditional significance. An elder of the village taught us about farming techniques and the importance of the keeping the tradition.

The squad walking to the taro patch
The girls applying coconut oil

We put coconut oil onto our arms and legs to prevent irritation from the taro plants. While we were doing this, we talked about legends associated with the taro patches. One of the legends created a rule where if you forget something at the field, you do not return for it. This was created from a tale of a woman returning to the field for something she forgot and found the field had turned into a lake.

Only girls were allowed into the taro patch

Some of the rules that are followed in the taro patch are that women are the only ones who take care of taro and that you are only allowed to walk in the irrigation path ways. It was believed that not walking in the water ways would curse you or curse the plants.

The guys were waiting at the side with the elder
Current taro patch that has twelve women that tend to it

A traditional field has three different purposes. One part of the field was partitioned for the elder man of the family, one part was partitioned for customs which were funerals and first birth ceremonies, and one part of the field was partitioned for the community and those who didn’t have food.

We were listening to the elder, Ulang, seated on the right, about the history of the field. She said the field had been there since the beginning and that her mother planted in the field and her mother’s mother had planted in the field.

Written by:

Junior Yalap ( Palau High School, Auto mechanic major, Graduating Spring 2021, Pacific Academic Institute for Research)

Savannah Hesidence (Oregon State University, Marine Biology and Environmental Sciences major, Graduating Spring 2022)

Day 5: Exploring Fisheries with the Locals

Ngirayobech (nicknamed Yoyo), an Ollei local, holds a Emperor fish.

For our fifth day in Palau, we hopped on a boat and headed to the outside of Ebiil Channel. The group used bottom line fishing (a hook with bait attached to a line with weight, coiled around a spool, is dropped into the water until it reaches near the bottom).

The bottom line spool with weight and mekebud (sardine) bait attached.

With this tool, the group starting catching fish left and right! Tate, an OSU student, had a bite on the first drop of the day. The group caught 15 fish, but had to throw 3 back because of size limits and 2 groupers because they are not in season.

Tate holds a Longfaced Emperor fish, his biggest catch of the day.

About an hour and a half in, rain started heavily pouring down. We quickly reeled in our hand lines and headed back to the Ollei port. The rain was so heavy that you could not see 10 feet in front of you, much less the islands that are supposed to guide fishermen back to port. The team did not lose motivation in the storm, however. Most of us were all smiles and singing songs.

A glimpse of the stormy weather on the open ocean.
The group turns back to the Ebiil Center while enduring the harsh winds.

After rounding up all the fish we had caught, Tino, captain of the boat, showed us how to measure each fish, differentiate between the males and females, and record the data.

Tino (left) explains to students Destiny, Katherine, and Savannah (left to right) how to differentiate the gonads of male and female fish.

Each student had a turn to scale the fish with fish scalers provided by the fishermen at the port. Starting at the tail, while holding the head, students remove the scales using the fish scaler to prepare it for eating.

A Longfaced Emperor fish being scaled by Destiny.
Palauan student Jose scaling a fish.
(Left to right) Student Jose, Ebiil staff member Surech, student Kobe, and staff member El remove the gills and guts.

After cleaning the fish, we sat down with the local fishermen elders (including Chief Rteruich Katsusi of Ollei) to discuss the issues the fishermen face today with the changes in tourism, culture, and everyday life.

The catch included two types of species, Longfaced Emperor (top) and Yellow Lip Emperor (bottom) reef fish.

In the evening, the Oregon State University students were invited to a celebration of the Todai (lighthouse) in the village of Ollei. The evening consisted of touring the remains of the lighthouse built by Palauans under control of the Japanese administration during World War II. The remains of the Todai showed bullet holes and had remnants of Japanese hand grenades within the foliage from when the Japanese fought the Americans during a battle.

The tower on the right is the original lighthouse structure built by the Palauans and Japanese. Bullet holes are prominent in the lighthouse.

We were then given a dinner of fish, clams, fruit (including dragonfruit), tapioca, and taro. The evening concluded when the local girls of Ollei performed a contemporary dance (the name for the traditional Palauan dance).

Dinner was served in baskets lined with banana leaves.

“Ng meral mle ungil a sils er kemam.” (Palauan for “We had a very good day!”)

Written by:

Simone Burton (Oregon State University, Marine biology major, Graduating Spring 2021)

Raimunt Mesubed (Palau High School and Pacific Academic Institute of Research (PAIR))

Day 4: The Search for Sea Cucumbers

CurryFish waiting to be tagged and outplanted.

Our second day at The Ebiil Society we had plans to go to a nearby island and learn about various animals and archaeological history. We met early to discuss and learn about the basics of calculating population density before departing from the local port to the Island of Ngerkeklau to perform transects on the eastern side of the island to determine the population densities of the Curryfish (Ngimes) and Lollyfish (Chouas). After 12 transects we calculated the results and determined there are approximately 0.85 Curryfish (Ngimes) per square meter and 0.12 Lollyfish (Chouas) per square meter. After the transects we took a short break for lunch.

Lunch in the Sea.

Following lunch we alongside Palau Community College Students and the Pacific Academic Institute for Research had the chance to learn the methods of turtle monitoring and megapode nesting by Joshua Eberdong and Ann Singeo of The Ebiil Society.

We continued to hike along the Island and began to wind our way inland on trails made by the first inhabitants 800 years ago. We found old pieces of pottery and tools that they used as well as coral walls they had built.

Two pieces of pottery and a stone tool.

The trails led around the island back to the summer house that we used as our home base for the day, we regrouped and packed up before getting back in the water to collect Curryfish for tagging and transport.

PCC Student Kobe Moses and OSU Students Dylan and Simone with Curryfish before transport.

The group headed to the western side of the island and gathered Curryfish before departing back to Ollei for tagging and outplant near the local dock.

We tagged the Curryfish at the local dock to determine populations estimates and how long they stay in a certain location. Following the tagging of the Curryfish we took them to a set location just south of the local port, with that we came across the carcass of a sperm whale.

Sam preparing the Yellow Fin Tuna he caught

After we finished putting the Curryfish back we returned to The Ebiil Society to find our dinner being processed. Sam, Ann’s husband had caught a Yellow Fin Tuna and was cutting it into steaks. It made a delicious fish soup and tuna steaks. After a long yet successful day and a wonderful dinner we are looking forward to tomorrows adventure learning about fisheries in Palau.

Tate Scarpaci (OSU)

Kobe Malsol Moses (PCC)

Day 3: Tree Planting/Tagging and Waterfall Nature Hike

The Ebiil Society adventures have begun! Today we had a whole day laid out for us with a tree planting project to seeking out a historic road for the people of Babeldaob to cooling off in the Mesekelat waterfall.

Ann telling us the ecological history of our planting site.

Most of us were awake and ready to start the day around 7am and prepared our breakfast soon after with things such as toast, bananas, ramen, boiled eggs, fish, and cereal. After promptly filling our bellies, around 8am we began by loading up the truck with 82 trees, such as Btaches, Kisaks, and Miich to help the society with a reforestation project in an eroded site in Ngermchau Bai, Ngiwal. While driving the route to the site, part of our group stopped to collect lemongrass to plant at the site to help assist in preventing future erosion.

Btaches and Kisaks

After Ann gave us a brief history of the area, we got down and dirty. Literally. Ilima, El, and Surech guided us with the osib in digging a trench and hole to show us how to plant the way they would prefer. After the example, we pitched in and got started. Several of us learned how to properly plant the lemongrass in the trenches to help protect the newly planted and tagged trees. We only tagged a sample of the trees planted to watch their succession over time. Bryan and Scott helped us by cutting the wires with the single multi-use wire cutter that we also used for the clamping part of the tagging. This timely process, El took down the tree info and tag number to keep record of the area.

Tate and Savannah planting Lemongrass
Dylan and Sofia measuring and tagging a tree
El recording measurements from Dylan, Bryan, and Destiny

With the help of the Ngiwal youth and their leaders we were all able to work on an eroded hillside to dig holes, plant the trees and lemongrass, and properly tag and record info for the Ebiil Society’s project. While the ground wasn’t the best, we worked our way with the red acidic clay and gravel with lots of tender loving care. We planted, patted, and gave these little guys all the love and hope we could manage.

Jose and Destiny providing tender loving patting of surrounding dirt to the lemongrass

By this time we were famished, dirty, and ready for lunch and a cool down. Ann took us to Mesekelat waterfall and we ate under shade at the trail head. No photos of our delicious lunch were taken as we were too busy scarfing down our chicken sandwiches, banana fries, and grapes. But do not fret our journey to and from the waterfall was documented quite well!

Group river crossing wet-style

As we ventured down the steps and path to the old Babeldaob road, which is about a few thousand years old, Ann told us about some of the road’s history. We got to see some of the caves that the Palauans took cover in during airstrike attacks, as well as some remains of the Japanese agriculture carts. We identified a few endemic trees of Palau along the road. The road was recently opened and cleared for passage and some of the water crossing were a bit sketchy.

One of the more “iffy” bridges
Ann pointing out one of the many caves that Palauans used to take cover and hide during the war.

At last we made it to our destination of cool, sparkling waters. Upon promptly rushing down the steps, we were all in the water within minutes. Exploration and relaxation at it’s finest happened at the Mesekelat waterfall. We spent a good chunk of time here, cooling down and washing off the dirt from our hard work this morning.

Jesus is back!

On the way back to the Ebiil Society we came across a fire along the road, Ann went to investigate and there was a man claiming to watch it carefully. Fires are illegal in protected areas but this may have been private property.

Dinner was just what we all needed after a long day. It consisted of mashed banana with coconut and coconut glaze, rice, grilled tuna, poke, papaya, mango, kangkum salad, kool aid, and water. We happened to briefly catch the sunset during the feast and it was extravagant! After dinner, Ulang and Osu joined us for a story and Q&A session. We learned about the women’s fisheries and sea turtle issues in this area. Whew! What a day, looking forward to another full day tomorrow!

Ulang telling her stories
Another lovely sunset

Published by:

Destiny Pauls, Natural Resources- Conservation Law Enforcement, Graduating Spring of 2021.

Jose Thomas, Liberal Arts, Graduating Summer of 2020.

Day 2: Travel Day/ Intro to Ebiil Society

Today we transitioned from Koror to Ngarchelong, home to the Ebiil Society. During travel we stopped to examine the four ecological services Palau’s natural environment offer: cultural, provisioning, regulating, and supporting. In the photo below we are discussing Palau’s swamp forests which prevent soil erosion, slow down the movement of freshwater to the ocean, help shelter the island from storms, and provide habitat.

On our hike down to the Ngardmau Waterfall we saw a variety of flora and fauna, including pitcher plants and small frogs.

Hiking down the Ngardmau Falls we were met with red volcanic soil, about 650 stairs, and a beautiful, wet walk through the rain forest.

11

Bryan and Scott, faculty leads for the program, got especially wet when adventuring through the waterfall.

After arriving at Ebiil Society, touring the facilities, and walking down the pier we encountered many creatures including mud skippers, fiddler crabs, and a juvenile shark.

At the end of the day, before an awesome dinner of rice, taro, fish, papaya salad, fruit, and taro elang, we hiked to an old Japanese lighthouse and watched the sunset. A great ending to a full day!

Published by:

Sofia Baum, Business Administration and Sustainability, Graduating Spring 2020.

Dylan Heppell, Environmental Sciences, Graduating Spring 2022.

Welcome to our 2019 FW391 Palau Ridges-to-Reefs blog!

For the next two weeks this blog will detail the learning adventures of Oregon State University’s FW391 students in Palau! This class is designed to explore natural resources on small islands and how both communities and ecosystems can be resilient with appropriate management approaches. In addition to the seven students from OSU, we have four Palauan students joining us from Palau Community College and three more from a local high school. This mixing of students provides great opportunities for peer-to-peer student learning, and sharing our learning with the Palauan students -who have a great wealth of cultural and ecological knowledge about their country, will contribute greatly to the richness of the class. We will also be joined by Dr. Chris Kitalong, a Palauan scientist at PCC.

Each day two students will post a narrative of our adventures, talk about what they’ve learned, and share videos and photos to round it all out. For our first blog, Bryan Endress, who organized the course, and Scott Heppell, who is a co-instructor, are taking on the task. So let’s get started!

Most students arrived a day or two before class to take advantage of the amazing recreational opportunities that Palau has to offer, including world-class scuba diving. Here’s Dylan Heppell, Simone Burton, and Destiny Pauls getting up close and personal with some of the underwater denizens of Palau’s amazing coral reefs:

Our first official day of class was great, too! Our goals for today were to get students thinking about Palau, its natural resources, and its culture. First of all, who doesn’t love a syllabus review to start the day?

Following that rousing activity, we visited the Belau National Museum, where we learned about the several thousand-year history of the islands, some of the important cultural features of Palauan society, and a bit about Palau’s recent efforts in conservation. Having the Palauan students along was a fantastic way for the OSU kids to learn more about the various topics than what could be read on the placards. Outside was a traditional Bai, a meeting house for chiefs in the community.

After a quick break for lunch we were headed off for our afternoon activity -a visit to the Aquarium followed by afternoon snorkeling to round out the day.

And every day in Palau ends with a fantastic sunset…

It was a great way to start the class, and it’s just the start of what will hopefully be an amazing two weeks.  So please follow along!

Last Day of Class

Today we wrapped up the class by reflecting back on our time spent here. Palau is a beautiful country that has complex issues surrounding the use and protection of their natural resources. This class showed us both the cultural and scientific sides of the story, which served as a lesson that there is never one straight forward solution to a problem. A large part of conservation work is learning how to communicate efficiently with stakeholders that might hold complete opposite views and how to compromise so that both sides walk away happy. More importantly, if the community is actively involved in the preservation of natural resources then the regulations put in place are more likely to stick.

We would like to give a special thank you to our amazing instructors, Bryan Endress and Scot Heppell, for putting together this course. Without them this amazing class would not have been offered.

Thank you to Ann Singeo and the Ebiil Society for hosting us for a week during this trip. The amazing women that work here are making huge strides in education the youth of Palau so that a whole generation is brought up knowing the importance of protecting natural resources.

Special thanks to Obak, a chief of Ngetkib, who donated his valuable time to us to drive us in his boat around to the different rock islands.

Our MVS (most valuable students) were Daemi and Balang. We were so fortunate to have you both participate with us! Thank you so much for sharing Palauan snacks with us, showing us around, being our moms/chauffers, joining us in the taro patch, and providing modern context when we had questions.

And last but not least, thank you to Chris Kitalong and Palau Community College for sharing your knowledge and time to teach us more about this wonderful country.

Our last group activity – the night market

 

Music, dancing, loads of food, and some beautiful handmade jewelry. Nearly every vendor in Koror, and a variety of others brought a huge variety of food. This was probably the event that we saw the most tourists at. Taiwan had a fairly strong presence, with a few booths of imported fruits and veggies from Taiwan, and someplace was handing out postcards with “Best Friends Forever – Palau and Taiwan” written on them. The dancing was wonderful. The first group was all women with two younger girls. Second was a group with some more contemporary dances with men and women, that were pretty hilarious. Last was a group of women who accumulated several children standing close by and occasionally trying to mirror their dance.

Last but not least, the best part of the night was when Hannah went up and danced with a man we later found out was named Daniel… Dani Daniel? It was hilariously amazing. He was completely thrilled that she danced with him and showered her with compliments for her efforts. She’s an expert Palauan dancer.

Day 13: Lake Ngardok (Crocodile?)

 

Unfortunately, there’s still rain and high winds, so no snorkeling today! However, we visited Lake Ngardok, the largest freshwater lake in Micronesia (but don’t get too excited, its surface area is only 0.04 square miles!). “Ngardok” means “living spring” in Palauan, a tribute to its valuable flora and fauna. The lake lies within a protected area that accounts for 18% of the state of Melekeok (there are 10 states on the island of Babeldoab). It’s an important area to protect because of the wide variety of ecosystems– forests, wetlands, streams– that provide habitat for native and endemic species.

When we arrived, the Ngardok Reserve manager gave us some information on their reforestation methods to restore nutrients to degraded soil areas. To replant the areas, seeds are harvested from the reserve itself and propagated in their on-site nursery. To aid their growth, the staff are experimenting with different organic fertilizers: limestone, coconut husks, and soil from taro patches.

Lake Ngardok

The Reserve workers collect saplings from the reserve forests and raise them in this nursery. Once the plants reach a healthy size, they are then planted in reforestation efforts.

An example of using coconut husk’s as long lasting plant fertilizer. The coconuts take a while to completely break down, which means they provide nutrients to the plant for a while.

The class as we began our journey along the trail through some of the reserve.

No students were harmed in the duration of this hike.

Above: Micronesian Imperial Pigeon. The Lake Ngardok Nature Reserve rescued this bird and is currently rehabilitating it. Once healthy, they plan on releasing the pigeon back into the nearby forest.

One of the many orchid species in the reserve. Unlike many orchids, the flowers on this species are green. Scientific name: Speuderia micronesiaca.

Another one of the several orchids found in the reserve. Scientific name: Dipodium freycinetioides.

This species of fern acts as an epiphyte, meaning it grows on other trees. It is locally known as “Crocodile Nails” due to its shape. It is one of the oldest fern species in Palau.

The Ngardok manager discussing how the ferns can smother newly planted saplings

Bryan informing us about the non-native acacia trees first introduced to help return nitrogen to the poor soil. Introducing non-native plants inhibits the progress of reforesting an area with native species, as well as possibly causing it to become invasive. Now managers are working with native species to support forest recovery.

Not a high quality photo, but it’s picture evidence of what is probably, most likely, and quite possibly an endangered saltwater crocodile!

Day 11: Coral Reef Research Foundation & Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle

HELLO!

Today we met many different people with different expertise. In the morning, we visited Patrick Colin with the Coral Reef Research Foundation. He gave a presentation about climate change in Palau and how that has affected marine life in the past and predictions for the future. After that, we visited the Palau Aquarium.

After a quick lunch break, we drove over to Palau Community College to visit their research lab. They are doing great research with the Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle (CRB) virus, persistent organic pollutants, and health habits in Palau. CRBs have made a serious impact on the coconut plants in Palau, and is disrupting the coconut economy. They are working to figure out why some of these beetles are becoming immune to the virus.

Finally, we visited the US Embassy to have a meeting with Amy J. Hyatt, the Palau Ambassador for the United States, along with Paul Blake with NRCS. Here, we had a great discussion on the politics between US, China, Taiwan, and Palau, along with the work that the Embassy is doing for agriculture in Palau. Unfortunately, we were not able to take any photos due to security.

Patrick Colin presenting his data on climate change in Palau.

Having fun at the aquarium!

Dissecting Coconut Rhinoceros Beetles at PCC.

 

Day 10: Jellyfish Lake

Today we started our day at the Coral Reef Research Foundation (CRRF) where we listened to a presentation about Marine Lakes and Jellyfish Lake. We learned that a Marine Lake is a body of saltwater completely surrounded by land. They are often connected to the ocean through underground channels in the limestone. There are 55 marine lakes in Palau, and only 5 have golden jellyfish. Of all 55 lakes, only one is open to the public. At CRRF, one of their projects is measuring the population of the jellyfish in the lake and how natural events such as El Niño have caused the jellyfish population  to disappear. For instance, in 2002 there were an estimated 20 million jellyfish in the lake, but after the most recent El Niño they disappeared again. The researchers believe that warm water caused the jellyfish to vanish, among other things such as sunscreen and invasive species. The reason that the population is able to recover is because the polyps (jellyfish larva) are able to survive despite the warm temperatures. Currently, there are roughly 20,000 jellies in the lake (less than 1% of their previous number- but we still saw several!).

Little Jelly!

the native sea anemone, there is currently an invasive brown anemone in the lake as well.

 

Less common, but still native- moon jelly

One of the CRRF researchers showing us the difference between male and female jellies

Laurel’s selfie with a Jelly!

the most common type in the lake- a golden jelly

After leaving the research center we went out to Jellyfish lake with some of the researchers from the foundation. Currently every visitor to Jellyfish Lake must buy a special rock island permit in order to access it. We snorkeled around for an hour, before departing to a different island for lunch. While at the island, Jesy got stung by a jellyfish (ironically, this happened after we left Jellyfish lake, where the jellies have very mild stings). After lunch we went snorkeling at Fantasy Island. There we were able to witness a wide variety of fish feeding in the coral and a black tipped reef shark! We ended our day at a cove nicknamed Milky-Way, where we used the mud-like sand to exfoliate ourselves!

Amy and Hannah on the beach

the black tip reef shark

fish feeding!

Dussumier’s Halfbeak

 

Nikki, Balang, Alayna having fun with the Milky Way sand!

Day 9: Airai Protected Area and Biota Aquaculture

Today we began our morning with Clarence again as we headed out on the boat to the Medal Ngediull Conservation Area in the state of Airai. As we talked more about the conservation site, we got to chat with the director of the PAN and the Speaker of the House for the state. They talked to us about some of the biggest problems facing this PAN: sedimentation and overfishing. The sedimentation is a huge issue here because the water flowing into the small bay carried too much sediment from the construction of the airport and local development. Too much sediment harms the coral and seagrass beds here, in turn reducing the populations of fish and marine life. Overfishing of sea cucumbers and rabbitfish have also reduced populations numbers and they aim to bring some of these species back to a healthy number. We asked them how the community responded when they decided to close the fishing for the 5 year term, and they said that the more educated portion of the community was in favor because they understood the benefits, but it was hard on local fishermen whose livelihoods depend on this area.They tell us that by working with the community and following the sediment trails, they are trying their best to reduce the negative effects in the conservation preserve. After chatting with these men, we got the chance to do some snorkeling in the seagrass and coral reefs to see some amazing marine life and different kinds of fish.

The Medal Ngediull Conservation Area in the state of Airai.

View from the island near the protected area, where we waited for the tide to come back in.

Clarence and the director of the Airai protected area talking with us about the issues of sedimentation and overfishing.

While waiting for the tide to come back, we spent time pairing up and measuring the sea cucumber abundance by counting sea cucumbers within each measured transect. We did the sampling to compare the abundance difference outside of the protected area and within the protected area.

Students measuring the sea cucumber abundance outside of the protected area.

Later in the afternoon we visited the Biota Marine Life Nursery, which collects wild spawned eggs from tropical fish in Palau. They mainly nurse and grow tropical fish, small and giant clams and coral for aquarium export, but they also help restock the rabbitfish population as an agreement with the state of Airai for developing a site there. They have restocked the fish in the past, but so far do not have any data collected to reflect their efforts of restocking. They have collected eggs and nursed some very rare fish including the burbonias anthias, a spiny fish found only below 100 meters or about 300 feet in the ocean. Their efforts claim to be sustainable for the waters of Palau, as Palau remains one of the only places that is labeled as having a healthy coral reef.

Baby coral being grown at Biota.

Wild giant clams being grown at Biota for export to aquariums.

Palau Day 8: Diving and Day Off

After a long first week, we had a day off from our usual class. A few of us went diving, while the rest of the class relaxed, ran errands, and worked on their projects. The few of us that went diving went to a dive site called Sandbar, where we finally saw some sharks. We were able to see white tip, black tip and grey reef sharks. The second dive site was called Ulong Channel, which was a deep channel with a sandy bottom and walls of coral on either side. There we saw a school of juvenile grey reef sharks and around four Hawksbill sea turtles. The last dive was a Indonesian fishing boat wreck, which was covered with a diversity of corals and fishes. 

Hannah diving at Sand Bar

The heavy downpour did not discourage the divers today

Triggerfish that attempted to attack multiple divers

Juvenile grey reef sharks

Ulong Channel

Giant clam in Ulong Channel

After a satisfying day of diving, everyone met back at Sam’s Tours for happy hour and food. Overall, today was restfull for some and very eventful for others, but great for everyone. It was a nice break, but we’re all excited to start a new day of learning and adventure tomorrow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbjKgM8Qllc&feature=youtu.be

 

Palau Day 7: Ollei’s Reefs and Fisheries

Today was our last day in Ollei, and we were very sad to leave. It was a fun and relaxing day on the water spent fishing and snorkeling. In the morning, we went out on the boat for a couple hours learning to fish with hand lines. Overall, we caught around 20 fish of 7 different species, including the orange lined trigger fish, yellow striped snapper, coral grouper, red snapper, gold saddle goatfish, blacktail snapper, and lyertail grouper.

Heading out to fish in the morning

 

 

Bright smiles as some of us catch our first fish ever (except for Alec, who caught many)

 

 

Daemi and Alec were our star fishers for the day

After catching and cleaning the fish, we learned how to properly identify, measure, and weigh them. The fish were then scaled and filleted to be prepared for dinner later.

Sorting through our catch of the day

Tino showing us how to differentiate between sexes

Following our fishing excursion, we ate a tasty lunch of fish sandwiches and took a short break before heading back out to snorkel at Ebiil Channel. Everyone had a great time admiring the massive array of diverse fishes and beautiful corals. After an hour or so of snorkeling, we headed back to Ebiil  to wind down and begin packing for our return to Koror.

Crown of thorns starfish

Mooray eel and cleaning wrasse

Pink anemonefish

Orangefin anemonefish

Huuuuuuge sea cucumber

We would all like to thank the Ebiil Society, all of our mentors, and our boat drivers for a spectacular week of fun and educational activities. We learned a lot about traditional Palauan management practices and we now have a greater understanding of how culture and science interact. Thank you!!

 

 

 

Day 6: Taro patches!

Here is our vlog for today–where we learned about taro cultivation and taro patch management.  When Ann is sharing her knowledge with us about taro patches, the audio is low, so turn up the volume. We also fit in a visit to some stone monoliths and a bit of snorkeling. Check it out:

https://youtu.be/_JvE7UnTuis

 

Day 5: Tree Planting and Mesekelat Watershed

Today we helped plant 80 trees ( Pterocarpus indicus, Millettia pinnata, Casuarina equisetifolia, Terminalia catappa), and 50 Lemongrass plants in the degraded soil of Ngaremlengui state. We also explored the Mesekelat Watershed, where we hiked through a forest, and visited a waterfall. We ended the day visiting another endemic tree of Palau, in the Mesekelat Conservation Area.

Below is a photo diary of today’s events!

Pictured is a Parkia tree, which is endemic to Palau, and one of the most rare species.

Ann tells the group about how local people learned of the degrading water quality, and reached out to her for help.

The soil in this area is mostly clay, which is very infertile for crops. The goal of today is to add trees that have roots that can hold water for a long period.

Pictured are students working together to plant various tree species.

Pictured is students planting Lemongrass to help fence the forest from soil erosion.

In the Mesekelat Watershed, we stopped at a waterfall.

Today’s bloggers enjoying the waterfall!

This a map of Ngchesar state, and Stephanie is pointing to the Mesekelat Conservation Area

Another endemic tree of Palau, Calophyllum pelewenese P.F. Stevens, found in the Mesekelat Conservation Area. The trunk of the tree is round enough for four people’s arms to reach each other.

Students visiting the Mesekelat Conservation Area.

Stay tuned for our next blog post!

– Jesy Rodriguez and Daemi Ngirmidol

Palau Day 4: Snorkeling in the Mangrove

On our second day in Ollei, our class snorkeled through nearby mangroves. A mangrove is a tree or group of trees and shrubs that grow in saltwater. They provide many ecosystem services to coastal communities such as: protection from storms, regulation of water quality, provision of breeding and rearing habitats for many species, and supply wood and other forest products to local populations. Mangroves are also a source of energy for nearby ecosystems such as seagrass beds and coral reefs. They also act as a major carbon sink.

Below is a photo-diary of todays events!

The mangrove forest we went to was a short hike from our campsite along the North shore of Babeldaop

The path we took to our destination during low tide. In a few hours it would all be underwater.

During low tide it is common to see small organisms traveling across the sand. Above pictured is a mudskipper.

At various spots along the hike to our snorkel spot, Bryan, Scott, and Ann stopped to give us more information regarding mangrove land use and ecosystem services.

This is the sprout of a mangrove tree that drops when its ready to be planted. The top brown piece helps it float farther away and eventually pops off, allowing the sprout to sink and form a root.

Pictured is the roots of a Bngaol Mangrove, most common in the area near our campsite. These crop roots shoot our horizontally and spread far and wide from the base of the tree.

Some mangrove species have an interesting adaptation that locals call a “sacrificial leaf”. Living in salt water can be tricky for plants since they require fresh water. Mangroves can send the majority of the salt they take into a few select leaves. These leaves turn yellow and eventually fall off the tree and back into the ocean.

Pictured above are students snorkeling in the seagrass.

Above is a crocodile fish

Portuguese Man o’ War seen while snorkeling. It was scooped up in a mask to prevent any stinging.

On the way back to the village after snorkeling, we found some discarded net. We brought it back with us so that it was not littering the mangrove anymore.

After we returned home from snorkeling we had lunch. After lunch, most of us hopped on our kayak’s and a raft to return to a mangrove and learn more about women’s fisheries, specifically clamming.

After clams have been successfully harvested, they are brought back home to be cleaned, shelled, and prepared to eat.

Some of the days events were cut short due to inclement weather. Sudden winds and heavy rains are common in tropical environments and it served as a learning tool for how mangroves can provide shelter during storms.

 

Stay tuned for the next blog post!

– Nathan Hakzen and Jesy Rodriguez

Palau Day 2

Hello everyone!

Today was a busy and exciting day in Palau. We hiked to a waterfall, visited a beach, and made it to Ollei where we will be staying for a week. Along the way we learned about land use and forest ecology, and had a lot of fun in the water. Amy and Alec made a video of today so check it out!

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Palau Ridges to Reef -Day one!

Welcome to our Palau Ridges-to-Reefs blog, which will follow our Oregon State University group in Palau for the next two weeks! This class is designed to explore natural resources on small islands and how both communities and ecosystems can be resilient with appropriate management approaches. In addition to the students from OSU, we have a number of Palauan students joining us, including five students from Palau Community College. This mixing of students provides great opportunities for peer-to-peer student learning, and the incorporation of the PCC students -who have a great wealth of cultural and ecological knowledge about the nation that they can share- will contribute greatly to the richness of the class. This is hopefully a first step in creating a joint OSU-PCC class in the future!

Each day two students will post a narrative of our adventures, talk about what they’ve learned, and share some videos and photos to round it all out. For our day one blog, Bryan Endress, who organized the course, and Scott Heppell, who is a co-instructor, are taking on the task. We are also joined by Chris Kitalong, a Palauan scientist at the Pacific Academic Institute for Research at PCC. And what a great first day it has been!

Our goals for today were to get students thinking about Palau, its natural resources, and its culture. First of all, who doesn’t love a syllabus review to start the day? You can’t start a class without covering expectations for the class, after all.

Following that rousing activity, we visited the Belau National Museum, where we learned about the several thousand year history of the islands, some of the important cultural features of Palauan society, and a bit about Palau’s recent efforts in conservation. Having the Palauan students along was a fantastic way for the OSU kids to learn more about the various topics than what could be read on the placards

After a quick break for lunch we were headed off for our afternoon activity -a boat ride out to east side of Airai,

Where we got in the water for some snorkeling,

followed by a brief stop on a sandbar exposed at low tide,

and then a short hike up the Yap Money Trail to see a bit of the forest and some really large coins -not the type you’d plan on carrying around in your pocket. Many thanks to Clarence Kitalong for the use of his boat and for serving as captain for the day!

We ended the formal events for the day back at the museum, where we were served traditional Palauan fare including grilled fish, taro, tapioca, dragon fruit, mangrove clams, and other delicacies.

It was a busy day, and it’s just the start of what will hopefully be an amazing two weeks.

We’re sure the students are in their rooms right now, diligently working on their daily journal entries and packing for our trip tomorrow. We’ll be spending the next several days on the north end of Babeldaob in the village of Ollei, where we’ll be hosted by the Ebiil Society. We’re very much looking forward to it! Stay tuned for more adventures (and learning!) to come.