Each were posted on Facebook as as way to engage my friends and family in the experience. I’m sharing them here as well now that my trip has concluded. It was a challenged for me to be open and honest about the topics on this platform, as I generally shy away from anything controversial on social media. It was a liberating experience to put my thoughts and knowledge out into a medium that does not always have the best content. I am now more confident to speak up. I won’t be “picking fights” on facebook, but I will be able to approach a topic from a logical stand point, that matters to my society. Gender, Race and Class in society have an impact on everyone’s lives.
Introduction: First off, forgive me for posting a few days behind. It has taken a bit of time to adapt to the time difference and busy schedule of my trip. I will be sharing some of the insights I gain on my trip in London. I generally shy away from speaking up on social media platforms as my audience tends to be a bit polarized with very different and often strong opinions. I ask that you keep and open mind and merely ponder the thoughts I’d like to share. I am here to learn and it would be a great disservice not to share it. Thank you! Feel free to message me directly if you feel the need to expand on any of my topics. I am specifically looking for ways in which the city of London and its history present or withhold opportunities for equality. Equality I will further break down into the categories of: race, religion, and gender. These are points of diversity that can intersect and often exaggerate social issues in any society. Good day from London!
Rachel Graham
View from the London Eye
Day 1: Tour of London by bus, river and sky
Today I rode on a marvelous red double decker bus, and I was amazed at the size and organization of London’s streets and buildings. I saw so many iconic symbols of western culture it was almost overwhelming. In one particular area I noticed several buildings from the 18th century were named after men and or men’s clubs. It was not until I reached a younger neighborhood that I saw a statue of an important woman.
During our river cruise along the Thames, our tour guide provided all sorts of insight into structures along the journey. There were many beautiful bridges, the most famous being the Tower Bridge was beautiful. However, I was intrigued by the Waterloo bridge; not because of its decoration, but its construction background. The Waterloo bridge had been built by a crew of women during the war. The guide also added that it had been completed early and under budget. What a great example of female engineering.
From the London eye, everything seems surreal. I was reminded of my experience atop the Space Needle in Seattle. The difference being the great range of age in the architecture of London. Thank you Coca Cola for bringing your business venture to London in order to provide such a spectacular view of the city. Fyi Americans, coca cola in the UK has vegetable juice in it.
Day 2: The British Museum and the film “Blinded by the Light”
I admit I had much desired to gaze upon the many artifacts, or treasures of the world’s history, that are housed in the British Museum. I could have stayed there all day moving about the over 70 exhibit halls. It was hard to follow our chosen tour without being lost in the treasures. The historical trail we followed through the sea of artifacts was called “Desire, love, Identity.” There is even a free spotify podcast to aid the exhibit’s quest to shed light on the glossed over presence of queer individuals throughout history. Their stories provide a voice of the past, which presents insights into the ways each were able to find ways to love and their identity.
Of the many pieces we observed, the one that stood out to me was a small, yet beautiful silver cup. The Warren cup is decorated with two scenes of male lovers in an embrace. This piece, though found many years ago, was not displayed in the museum until the twentieth century as Homosexuality was illegal in England and Wales until 1967. I found it strange that the museum choose to filter out Homosexuality in a Museum full of separate men and women statues in the nude. The statue of Aphrodite has always been one of my favorite works of art. She appears bold, strong, and slightly curvy. In fact to learn more about the background of her impact on women in the ancient world, I bought a book to learn about her from a Greek woman’s perspective.
Although my focus of study in this tour was in regard to gender and identity, I could not help but notice the great number of world culture that had been “collected” by the British during the colonization of the world. Their were artifacts from indigenous populations around the world, even the Pacific Northwest. I could not help but wonder, “at what cost” these treasures had been taken. I wondered how their descendants would feel if they were visiting the museum; reverence or maybe despair at the reminder of their great loss. During the few hundred years that European countries colonized the indigenous communities of the world, there was a devastating loss of life. These artifacts are important representations of culture, but also reminders of that loss.
“Blinded by the Light” was a great film that shared the story of a Pakistani British immigrant struggling with his identity as well as the barriers presented to his race and religion. He finds himself in the musical lyrics of Bruce Springsteen. What would a teenage Pakistani British immigrant boy have in common with an American songwriter? They both use words to find their identity. Their words provide a voice to their frustration with class and the obstacles it places in the way of the “American Dream” of a better life.
Rachel Graham
Day 3: The National Portrait Gallery and the British Library
The The National Portrait Gallery in London is full of portrait paintings, that show us not only the appearance of the sitter, but the influences and passion of the painter. Royalty are displayed in the majority of the oldest paintings as they were commissioned, but as time passed on common people were represented as well in painted portraits. Our tour guide did a great job explaining the back history of the portraits and providing insights into what both the artist and the sitter were wishing to communicate. We focussed on pieces that represented struggles with race, class and gender.
One of the paintings that spoke to me, was not on our tour; but it represents the pain of a woman revolting after a childhood plagued by divorce. After being banished from court by Henry, Mary and her mother Catherine lived out the remainder of her life at Kimbolton Castle. Her mother died there in 1536 of cancer. While she had been declared an illegitimate heir, she later seizes the crown. In her short reign she earned the reputation of “bloody Mary” as she persecuted her father’s protestant church of England that had allowed her family to be destroyed. While her efforts were gruesome, she broke traditional gender roles and was one of the first acting Queens. She set the precedence for future Queens like her half sister Elizabeth to rule as a woman with strength. However, Queen Elizabeth, whose mother Anne Boleyn was beheaded, chose not to punish her people for her father’s errors.
Another painting that spoke to me, of bravery rather than pain, was “On the Throne” which features Reginald Kenneth Dwight also known as Sir Elton Hercules John. The musician sits proudly in a white suit featuring feathered shoulders and sits in front of a wall of gold, with real gold leaf . This painting boldly presents a man who has achieved success and respect in the face of adversity. As one of the first famous gay men to openly identify himself to the public, he represents bravery in it’s truest form. You may not know this, but it was against the law to be a gay man until the twentieth century, and it was not until the twenty first century that individuals under 21 where allowed to be gay. The same King Henry the Eighth that ruined Queen Mary’s life, enacted the death punishment for gay men that was enforced until 1861. It was instead lowered to a ten year prison sentence…
The British Library presented an exhibit about the history of the written word. It showed how language had evolved from different cultures, and was used to provide social order in communities. Even though each language was diverse, they all had the same sort of necessities for language. Language was used in economics, learning and for socializing. The pieces that stood out to me in the vast display of artifacts, were the decorated manuscripts of the Bible and the Qur’an. Side by side in the exhibit, I couldn’t help but notice the similarities rather than the differences. Each were crafted by educated, dedicated, religious individuals. I was not able to take photos of them so I will show you a link: https://www.bl.uk/events/writing-making-your-mark so you can compare them as well. Thank you for reading!
Rachel Graham
Day 4: London Rock Tour
I was very excited to go on this tour! I’m one of those “old souls” that enjoy classic rock from around the world. Several of my favorite artists are from Britain and lived and created music along the route of our tour. What does Rock and Roll have to do with gender, race and class? Everything! Rock and roll in Britain was a means to express frustrations with oppression by each of these, as well as a means to break out of a lower social class. Our tour guide Dr. Bruce Cherry gave a detailed tour of the places rock and roll was born in Britain. His stories gave so much insight into the personal struggles that the musicians suffered from. Many of those struggles were shared by the community, but expressed and seen by the world due to the medium of music and fame.
One of the most heartbreaking stories that was shared with us was about Elton John. We stopped in front of a small black door down an ordinary street. It was a place a man named Long John had once stayed. He had other musicians over from time to time, and Reginald Dwight was one of them. He had walked in on him trying to harm himself with as gas oven, due to the stress of an upcoming marriage. He hadn’t been able to pursue love with a man due to the pressures of society. This small black door is now a symbol of sadness and a turning point in a man’s life. Its possible he used John’s name as his new surname as a reminder of the man’s kindness and support.
Another interesting place on the tour was of course Abbey Road and the front of Abbey Road Studios. I was surprised at how very ordinary the street looked. Londoners all have a mutual understanding and respect for their famous country men and try to give them space. While people visit the front of homes, they do not parade after individuals out of respect. Many of the homes that were pointed out to us along the tour were unique and even beautiful, but also very much apart of the community. Some sadly, such as the home of Freddie Mercury have had to combat graffiti and raise their fences, but most live in nice but ordinary homes. Abbey Road Studios was no exception. If you didn’t know what it was you would just drive on by, as many cars did while we tried to get a photo crossing the road. It was interesting to me, that in a place with such a complex class system (7 fairly distinct classes) common people live amongst the rich. London’s housing authority has purposely designed housing in order to mix the neighborhoods. I’ll share a photo example of a street where it is quite obvious. One side has million pound homes and the other are provided by government programs. The rooms in the owned homes are larger and fancier, but nonetheless they live as neighbors. It was beautiful to see people live together even when they are so different in class, race and gender.
Another example of famous artists living and working around regular people is the Macartney Studios. A simple wood sign in front of a busy park square.
I also wanted to mention the guest speaker we met at the troubadour for lunch. Keith Altham was a writer/interviewer and Public relations adviser for many famous British Musicians. He had enjoyed working with the Who, but found it frustrating to work for men like Mick Jagger, who never really gave back to his community. I did notice that Mick Jagger also had one of the largest fences. Keith was proud to say he was a big Bob Dylan fan and enjoyed his visits to America.
Rachel Graham
Day 5: The Tower of London and Afternoon Tea
The Tower of London was another place I was excited to see. So much history took place there, and so much of it suffering. It’s a strange feeling to tour a prison that is now a symbol of pride, but was the last place many were seen alive.
It is a symbol of pride as it has stood for over a thousand years and houses the crown jewels. I couldn’t help but think of the price the jewels and gold had cost the people they were taken from. I felt a mixture of beauty and sadness. These symbols of power had come from the Empire that changed the lives of people around the world. They were the prize taken home after disease had been spread across places like the Americas, killing as many as 90 percent of the population in a few hundred years time. Who would have thought that the act and exposure of raising livestock would give one people so much power and strength over another.
The symbol of strength can be seen in the White Tower that housed the royal armory. The ingenuity that was exercised in order to craft magnificent suits of armor is not always something thought of in regard to the dark ages. If you’re interested in the history of the tower and the armour inside it, Netflix has two great specials you’ll want to check out. I’ll share them later.
Another interesting thing about the Tower of London is the history of animals living in it. It doesn’t strike me as a place I would want to live, let alone my pets. However, some of the treasures brought back to London were rare exotic animals. They did not survive very long in that type of uninviting captivity, but while. They were there Londoners paid to see them. Today the only royal pets left are part of a superstitious tradition. Ravens are cared for in order to “keep the tower from falling.”
Afternoon Tea was served in a very nice Hotel called Dukes. They served 3 blends of tea. A special Dukes blend earl grey and a chamomile were very good. There was a fruity one I didn’t try. English scones are more like a puffy biscuit that you put jam, lemon curd or clotted cream on. Clotted cream is a thick and silky like butter. There were also sandwiches of Ham and Fig, Chicken Curry and Egg/ Salmon Varieties. For dessert there were dark chocolate cake, avocado mousse and a black forest mousse. It was a delightful party that it’s like to recreate at home, but scale down a bit. I did my best to fit in class wise, but I was wearing fake pearls like my grandmother would have. My grandmother pearl loved her costume jewelry as do I.
Rachel Graham
Day 7: Royal Albert Hall and Mamma Mia at the Novello Theatre
Mamma Mia was simply brilliant. The women in this performance were strong, vibrant and yet fragile. While they did not need men, they wanted one to love. I particularly enjoyed how they presented the complications that are presented to women who opt to break free from the stereotypical path of marriage and children. While I do think it is possible to have it all, a personal life and one with a family, I think the message to young girls is warranted; there’s no need to rush into things before you know who you are. One thing I have learned throughout my marriage is that you can be happier together, if you have a voice and passion of your own that you can then share with your loved ones. A submissive wife is no longer the only type of woman that is attractive. Women can be witty, strong and passionate without losing their way. It is much easier to love someone that knows who they are and what they want, and be able to support them in their passions. This type of love has no set race or gender. It crosses all boundaries. What an inspiring day…
Day 8: Walking tour of Soho, UK LGBTQ History Lecture and Dinner with live Jazz at the Troubadour
“A Short History of LGBT Rights in the UK.” The British Library, The British Library, 7 Nov. 2017, www.bl.uk/…/artic…/a-short-history-of-lgbt-rights-in-the-uk….
Tatchell, Peter. “You Think We’ve Had 50 Years of Gay Liberation? In the UK It’s Barely Four | Peter Tatchell.” The Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 23 May 2017, www.theguardian.com/…/fifty-years-gay-liberation-uk-barely-….
Rachel Graham
Day 9: Tate Modern Art Museum and Midsummer Night’s Dream at Shakespeare’s Globe
Today we visited the Tate Modern, which houses artwork that expresses cultural aspects and conflicts of the last few centuries. While there are numerous pieces of merit, even Picasso’s work, I was drawn to a less iconic work. Catherine opie created an intimate portrait of actress Elizabeth Taylor, by photographing her home and possessions after her death. While this seems strange, or even simple, I found the presentation of “things” to make a big statement about class. While the world had viewed her as an almost mythical hollywood figure, in the end she was much like most of us. She may have had more money to buy things, but those things sat in cluttered closets just like someone of the middle or lower class. The message I heard from the photos, was that while some of us may have more “stuff” we each only have this life to live.
Another striking piece of work that caught my attention were two self portraits by photographer Nan Goldin. She had taken one on the day she was traveling, she was vibrant as she looked out the window of what looks like a train. This was a day she was looking her best and she wanted to remember it. In contrast she took another photo on a “bad day,” a day she had been assaulted by a lover. She stated she wanted to remember this bad day as well, so as not to repeat it. It was brave of her to show both strengths and weaknesses. I feel she was right not to hide her “bad day.” Instead of hiding it in shame, she sought to share it so that others could empathize and possibly even learn from it.
Later in the afternoon, we attended Midsummer Night’s Dream at Shakespeare’s Globe. It honestly was nothing like I had expected. The play had used the words of Shakespeare, but used costumes and body language to help the audience relate to the story. While it was not my favorite play, I enjoy the old Elizabethian costumes as much as I enjoy roaming the British Museum’s artifacts, I did respect the way they altered the gender and race of the roles. They managed to take a classic play and add neon colors, updated cultural references and even a pinata. Classic version or not, the play reached the audience and they enjoyed it. Children and adults laughed and sat on the edge of their wooden seats. I must admit this is how I believe Shakespeare would have wanted his plays to be enjoyed, my young and old… rich and poor.
Rachel Graham
23 hrs ·
Day 10: Queers & Piers Tour in Brighton
Brighton is a fun city south of London near the English Channel coastline. The city is a famous destination for holidays away from the city. Even royalty would come to Brighton to get away. One of the most unique Palaces ever built in England was placed here so that the prince could throw extravagant parties. The loose social structure of the city is perhaps one of the reasons queer couples flocked to the area over the years. Brighton is the home of one of the largest annual pride marches in the United Kingdom. On our Queers & Piers Tour in Brighton, our guide shared many stories of individuals who had lived or stayed in Brighton. He choose their stories as they struggled with adversity due to their gender identities. Whether they were gay, lesbian or transgendered; each had a story of struggle and even tragedy in some cases. I’d like to share one of the stories with you as it helped me better understand and empathize with the individuals, and maybe even see them as heroes rather than “others” from our past.
Dr. James Barry stayed in Brighton to be with his love, Lord Somerset who was not well. Dr. Barry was credited with the first successful Caesarean section in British medical history. The doctor helped many people throughout his lifetime and married his wife in Brighton. While he lived the majority of his life as a man, likely partially in order to practice medicine, Dr. Barry was actually a woman. He had requested them not to examine his body after his death as he did not want to be remembered for being different. He wanted to be remembered for who he was, a skilled Doctor and loving husband. In fact the review I read of our tour put it like this, “without Barry, we wouldn’t be where we are today and we should celebrate him” (Piers and Queers Tour of Brighton, 2014.)
Another story of an individual from Brighton, which was also mentioned on our tour of Soho in London, was the life of writer Oscar Wilde and his lover Lord Byron. Oscar Wilde was imprisoned for two years after being accused by the father of his lover. He died soon after his time in prison.
Brighton is a sunny vacation spot yes, but also the site of hardship and triumph for LGBTQ rights in the United kingdom. In the last few years, Brighton was the first to support and issue the first certification of same sex marriages. The hardship and bias placed upon those of different gender identities is far from over, but we’ve made some progress. Brighton is now home to the largest amount of same sex couples in the entire United kingdom.
Rachel Graham
23 hrs ·
Day 11: Kensington Palace and Gardens, Hyde Park and the Serpentine Gallery
Kensington Palace was a beautiful place to visit. With lavish rooms and a lovely managed garden, it was fit for royalty. However for a child like young princess Victoria, it seemed to lack many of the things children enjoy. This reminded me of some of the negative aspects of being born into the upper class. While you were destined to be provided for financially, you are likely to miss out on the sort of social interaction children crave, playing with other children.
This is also the message that was portrayed in the tour labeled, Queen Victoria’s childhood. There were rooms staged with children’s toys, paintings of her as a young girl, and even a journal she had written in. The line that was shared with us expressed the loneliness she had felt as a young princess. Another room listed the special rules she had to follow in the palace and in public. Something I found surprising was the lack of privacy the princess received from her mother. I had expected her to be well guarded, but to have to sleep in the same room with her mother seemed a bit much. Standing in the large room she had shared with her mother, I couldn’t help but feel a bit trapped as I’m sure she had. This was a good reminder for me of how class, money and power do not guarantee happiness. As glamorous as it would be to be a princess or a queen, I feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to live with the limitations placed upon the upper class. I would have been devastated to live so near a vast beautiful garden, if I were never allowed to stroll it in peace.
On a more positive note, the grand staircase featured paintings of teenage princess Victoria and her soon to be husband Albert. It was nice to see that even though she had lived a very restrictive childhood, she fell in love with the man her uncle had arranged for her to marry. She had 17 years of happiness with him. As sad as it is that she lost him at the fairly young age of 42, the Prince Albert memorial across the Kensington gardens expressed her love. It was the most lavish statue I had seen on my trip, and right behind it another token of her love for him in the form of Prince Albert Hall.
The final place we visited was the Serpentine Gallery at the edge of the Kensington gardens. This gallery was fairly small and featured the work of one artist at a time. The work being displayed this summer belonged to the New York artist Faith Ringgold. Ringgold’s work focuses on the struggles of her ancestors, which were slaves brought to America from Africa. Her work is bold, but touches on the severity of the transgressions committed against African Americans in America’s past. She uses a mixture of mediums to make her pieces, the one that stood out to me the most was a painted quilt. She was trying to communicate the vast number of slaves that died on ships before even making it to America. A bloody sea and a burning ship make it clear that the American ideal represented by the statue of liberty, was not presented to the slaves. Ringgold’s work is blunt, but necessary communication to both Americans and the world. She seeks acknowledgement, remembrance, and respect for those who were the victims of America’s prosperity and progress.
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