CoP Mechnical Event: Some Simple but Useful Techniques for 3D Printed Enclosures Presentation

5 Replies to “CoP Mechnical Event: Some Simple but Useful Techniques for 3D Printed Enclosures Presentation”

  1. I found this information very useful because I am designing an enclosure for my Junior Design project, PC controlled power supply. Even I am not going to use the 3D print, it is still useful because it gives me a better idea of how to start the design and how to be thoughtful in the design. Thank you for the useful tips and all the information, especially for someone like me that has no experience in designing mechanical boxes.

  2. Thank you for this presentation. Although I did not end up 3-D printing my enclosure there were a lot of very useful tips given out in this talk mainly pertaining to making a good print (avoiding overbuild, considering the layering effect of 3-D printing, and taking into consideration overhangs) and how to make a print with better fitment/strength (adding ribbing, how to properly do ribs, and using heat in-sets). For my partner that did end up doing 3-D printing the idea of using heat in-sets came in very useful as it boosted not only the looks of the design but also the strength.

  3. This event was useful to me when it came to designing the robotic arm for my junior design project. I applied the techniques Don presented for designing clips when it came to designing the pencil grabber. I designed the pencil grabber to “clip” onto a pencil or other writing utensil by applying what Don presented. Another thing I learned that was particularly useful in my design was the use of brass heat inserts. I designed a base enclosure that would house the motor that would drive the shoulder of the arm, as well as a simple gearbox to deliver more torque to the shoulder. The heat inserts came in very useful when it came to putting a lid on the enclosure. The lid both enclosed the motor and was also the shoulder joint, where the arm would be attached to it. I needed to fasted this lid with high confidence that the lid would not pop off once the arm was attached to the shoulder joint. I melted 6, 10-32 heat inserts onto the rim of the enclosure, and used those threads to fasten the the lid/shoulder joint. This provided very good results for me that only 2 screws were really necessary to fasten the lid securely, even with the arm attached to the shoulder joint.

  4. Thank you for all the useful tips, I applied many of them when designing an enclosure for our junior design project. I decided to use the laser cutting from tekbots to create panels for a box and connect them with 3D printed brackets. The result turned out pretty good except for the warping that occurred to the plywood during cutting. This only resulted in some of the panels being slightly curved outwards, but if I were to redo my box I would probably use 5mm plywood or acrylic instead.

  5. I found the information that was presented at this CoP very useful especially when it came to needing to design my enclosure for junior design. One key take away that I got from this was trying to find ways to incorporate ribbing into your designs when building boxes. This not only will decrease the amount of material that is used, but it also provides structural integrity for the enclosure.

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